Things You'll Need:
- Tape measure
- Drywall screw gun
- Wallboard tape, (paper or fiberglass)
- Utility knife
- Sanding block
- Wallboard knife (looks like a large spatula)
- Sanding sponge,
- Drywall
- Drywall screws (size depends on wallboard)
- Pre mixed drwyall compound or "mud"
- Corner bead if necessary.
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Step 1
Determine how many sheets you will have to purchase and what thickness and kind. Local building codes vary but most ceilings must be at least 5/8 fire resistant drywall. For bathroom walls you will want to use water resistant "green board". Drywall is usually sold with two sheets taped together. Buy extra in case you break any.
Measure and cut the wallboard by holding a t square at the point you have marked and scoring the paper with a utility knife. (You will want to but the tapered, beveled ends up against each other, and used the edges you have cut up against a corner.) After you have scored one side then gently fold the entire sheet until the seam you cut breaks, then use your utility knife to cut the opposite side. But the tapered edges together, get the wallboard level and butted against the top of the wall ( a helper is a good idea since wallboard is heavy.) and secure with several drywall screws. -
Step 2
Drive screws every 8 inches along seams and every foot in the middle. Bury the head of the screw slightly so that it leaves a dimple that can be filled with mud. Use the drywall knife and smear a light coat mud in the seams where the two meet, filling the cracks. Apply paper or fiberglass tape and spread another light coat across the top of the tape. Force out any extra and air bubbles and get a nice flat seam. Cover all screw heads with a light coat. Using a larger drywall knife, 8 or 12 inches, apply a second thin coat that covers both sides of the tape. Feather the sides pressing lightly. Wait an hour or so until the second coat dries and apply a third with the larger sized drywall knife. Cover all the seams and feather the edges. Allow this coat to dry for a couple of hours or more, depending on your climate. Sand with a 150 grit block.
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Step 3
For corners and edges you will need corner bead. It can be either metal or plastic and comes in 90 degree angles or rounded (bull nose) for a more modern look around windows. The corner bead reinforces areas that will get bumped. Keep a bucket of water handy and clean your tools, keeping your drywall knives in the water when not in use to keep the mud from hardening on them. Don't try and feather a seam after it is started to dry, it will tear the paper. Just wait until it is dry and sand it if you made a mistake.
Comments
luv2blog said
on 7/30/2008 I need this done, but I think I better hire it out! (smile)
Good article. Thanks!!