How to Use a Soldering Iron for Stained Glass Projects

When working with stained glass, choose a soldering iron that's between 80 and 150 watts, has a heat resistant handle that fits comfortably in your hand and has some type of temperature control. The lead came and copper foil methods are the two ways of joining stained glass. They are two completely different techniques, both requiring the use of the soldering iron.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

1. Prepare the edges of your glass pieces with foil or lead came. Brush flux on the surface you're soldering. This cleans the impurities from the surface so the solder will take hold and stay where you want it.

2. Hold the soldering iron in your dominant hand, parallel to the stained glass. Place the wider side of the tip facing you and perpendicular to the seam.

3. Grip the solder in the opposite hand, touch it to the tip of the soldering iron and feed it into it. As the solder flows down the tip onto the seam, move the iron. Draw it over the melted solder, forming a smooth, rounded bead.

4. Feed the solder at an even and continuous rate. Your seam will be flat if you use too little solder or feed it too quickly. If you use too much solder or move the iron too slowly, your seam may be too rounded and overflow onto the glass.

5. Clean the tip of the soldering iron occasionally. Wipe it off on a wet cellulose sponge.

6. End a seam when you are in the liquid part of the solder by pulling the tip off across the glass, rather than lifting it straight up.

Tips & Warnings

• Soldering a smooth, rounded bead takes practice. Make a practice board with different shapes drawn on it. If your seam ends up flat, let it cool and re-solder it.
• Buy a stand to hold your soldering iron to keep from damaging your work surface with the hot tip.
• Solder contains lead. Wash your hands with soap and water after handling it.