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How to Solder Perfect Lines in Stained Glass

Member
By msummy
User-Submitted Article
(2 Ratings)

Solder is used to hold teh various pieces of stained glass together in a stained glass panel. To achieve a professional quality, solder lines need to be smooth and uniform. This can be achieved by following basic steps and using quality tools and supplies.

Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  1. Step 1

    Heat the soldering iron to 68 setting found on your iron or it's controller.

  2. Step 2

    Use an abrasive pad or wet sponge to clean the iron's tip before you begin and periodically as you work.

  3. Step 3

    Lightly apply flux to a section of the stained glass project you are working on.

  4. Step 4

    Using 60/40 solder, unroll it to a manageable length and then lightly touch the area to be worked on.

  5. Step 5

    Place the solder on the tip of your iron and move both the iron and the solder at a slow constant rate following the fluxed copper foil seams.

  6. Step 6

    When you need to end or stop, do not just move the iron vertically off, but rather slide the iron towards the glass.

  7. Step 7

    Don't solder out to the perimeter of your stained glass piece, leave approximately 1/2 inch along the edge. This will allow the zinc came to fit over the glass.

  8. Step 8

    When finished with one side of your stained glass project, carefully turn it over and repeat the same process on that side. Check out the common problem tips below.

  9. Step 9

    If you found this article helpful in any way, please rate it as such. The 5th star on the right above would be nice. Feel free to comment as well.

Tips & Warnings
  • Pits or bubbles in solder lines? Too much flux causes pits and bubbles.
  • Portions of copper foil visible? Using too little flux. Portions of the copper foil will remain visible because solder needs flux to allow it stick to the copper foil.
  • Lumpy lines? The iron is not hot enough. Turn the temperature up in small increments.
  • Glass breaks? Either the iron was too hot or it was held in one place too long.
  • Solder spits and sputters? Too much flux was used.
  • Lines flat? The iron was moved too quickly or not enough solder was used.
  • Solder bulges? The iron was moved too slowly or too much solder was used.
  • Peaks in solder? The iron was not hot enough.
  • Solder seeps through to the other side? The iron was too hot.
  • Copper foil lifts up when soldering? This could be a result from too hot of an iron, moving too slowly, too much flux or a bad foiling job
  • When finished, always remember to turn your iron off. In fact, just unplug it to be sure!
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