How to Recognize Quality in a Men’s Suit

Obviously if you place an order for a completely hand-sewn Oxford custom suit made from best-bale Scottish wool for $17,000, you are going to experience the ultimate in luxury, quality, comfort and durability. But if you’re trying to decide whether to buy what appears to be a good deal on a last year’s $700 suit on sale for $150, you will need to be less assuming. Sometimes you can find a really good suit for a couple of hundred dollars, but the middle range of $300 to $500 and the $500 to $1,000 off-the-rack range are very dangerous in terms of risking minimal or even inferior quality for the promise of name-brand recognition.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

1. Use common sense. Only shop where you know you’re safe. Some larger department stores such as Nordstrom guarantee your satisfaction unequivocally. Their salesmen are often very knowledgeable and will help you decide what works for you. Be careful risking a purchase where the salespeople display an “used car salesman” attitude. There are still excellent independent men’s clothing stores staffed with highly qualified, if not sometimes arrogant, salespeople in most larger or upscale metro areas. But the odds are you will be shopping at a department store or larger regional or national men’s clothing chain stores where the volume of goods flowing out to customers is vast and often a numbers game as far as satisfying customers is concerned.

2. Consider tailoring. A good fit is one of the most critical factors and a suit must be fitted. Where you buy the suit is where you should have it tailored. If their tailor service is less than top-notch, no measure of quality in the suit itself will compensate. If the fitting isn’t included as part of the price, you don’t have a good deal. You are buying the tailoring service as much as the suit itself so make sure you understand what you’re buying.

3. Material is a key factor. Forget the blends and go with wool. Occasionally you can purchase a silk suit for summer, but only if you already own at least four or five core wardrobe suits. Good material almost speaks for itself. The sheen, softness and smoothness are undeniable when the material is excellent. Trust your feelings when you try it on. Nothing feels like a great suit and no cheap knock-off will ever compare.

4. Look closely at the stitching, the buttons and the lining. The cheaper a suit is, the less hand-sewing. Machine stitching means a lot of loose threads and very thin thread that looks weak and has a cheap, random look to it. It is not always in a straight line even though the distance between each stitch is precisely the same. The jacket should be fully lined and the trousers should be lined inside down to the knee. Notice how the belt loops are attached. Cheap buttons will be plastic and will be stitched by a rapidly cycling machine. The best suits will have real button holes, but this is provided generally only on a custom or semi-custom suit. Notice whether there is bulging at the seams, especially the shoulders. Finally, a really good suit will feel much more substantial down the front and in the collar and lapel. The extra material is one sign of a better made suit.

5. Now try it on. The cut of the suit will be apparent in a three-way mirror. Notice how the suit lays across your body and hangs down from the shoulders. Expensive cuts are much more stylish and flattering to most body shapes and they feel better too. Straight box cuts are much cheaper and easier to make, and no amount of tailoring will ever make up for their lacking in design and quality construction.

6. Last but not least, if you have to think about it, you probably should shop some more. Buying the right suit is an important step in your career or personal life, so take your time and learn to trust your own judgment. A great suit properly accessorized can earn you a lot of points when you meet someone in business or society.