How to Sew for Beginner: Zippers, centered

A centered zipper is for patterns that allow equal amounts of fabric on each side of the zipper. This is opposed to a lapped zipper, like in many pants patterns, where the zipper is hidden by an extra lap of fabric.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Zipper
• Fabric
• Thread
• Zipper foot, or half foot
• Seam ripper

1. Buy the zipper length called for in the pattern instructions, and the weight (metal or nylon coil) appropriate to what you are making. Jacket zippers are meant to separate. These are instructions for a zipper that doesn't separate.

2. First close the fabric seam, up to the marking for the zipper's opening. Sew to the mark using a standard stitch length and standard foot, and backstitch to secure the seam.
   
   Now change to a basting stitch and baste the seam allowance above the marking, where the zipper will be installed. Use the same seam allowance as the rest of the pattern. Do not backstitch when basting. Clip the bobbin thread (the underside of the basted seam) every half inch so the basting is easier to remove later.

3. Move the bulk of fabric to the right side of the seam, leaving only the left-side seam allowance. This will allow you to sew through just the seam allowance without leaving visible stitch marks on the good side of the fabric. Press the seam allowance open.

4. Open the zipper and place it face down so the zipper's teeth are aligned with the center of your basted seam, but not overlapping the center. Pin the left side of the zipper to the left seam allowance.
   
   Use as many straight pins as needed (every inch and a half or more) to secure the zipper without causing fabric bulges. Pin perpendicular to the zipper coil.

5. Install the zipper foot for your machine. When working with a zipper foot, be sure the zipper coil is on the side of the needle opposite from the foot.
   
   Baste the left sides together by starting at the bottom of the zipper tape and sewing to the top (where the zipper opens). Zipper tapes are usually marked with a sewing line, otherwise stitch about 1/4 inch from the zipper coil.
   
   Now close the zipper, move the bulk of fabric to the other side of the seam and pin the other side of the zipper to the right seam allowance. Repeat basting on this side, working bottom to top.

6. Flip the fabric so you are working on the top (right) side. Feel for the coil at the bottom of the zipper coil and mark it on your fabric. You will want to sew just below and close to the zipper coil.
   
   Starting on the left side of the zipper, use a standard stitch length and sew from top to bottom. You will sew through the garment, the seam allowance, and the zipper tape, parallel to the zipper coil. When you reach the mark for the bottom of the zipper, stop, leaving the needle in the fabric.

7. Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric so you are sewing perpendicular to the zipper coil. Shorten your stitch length to either 12 or 14 stitches per inch. Sew to the center seam, stopping in the 'ditch' where the two sides of the garment were basted together. Do not backstitch, and leave long threads. It should look like you've sewn the letter 'L'.

8. Now repeat the same thing to the right side of the zipper.
   
   Take the top threads from the left and the right and double knot them, then cut the remaining thread. Repeat the same thing underneath with the two sides of bobbin thread.

9. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the basting stitch along the seam allowance. Open the zipper and make sure there are no bulges, puckers, and that it is well-centered. Congratulations, you sewed a zipper.

Tips & Warnings

• It is best to practice zippers techniques with two squares of scrap fabric, then move on to your sewing project.

Resources

• Jo-Ann Fabrics
• Use a Pattern, Part 1
• Use a Pattern, Part 2
• Hand sewing techniques