How to Do a Blind Hem on Lightweight Fabrics

Hemming lightweight fabrics can be more difficult than working with heavier fabrics. You must apply nearly professional sewing skills to create a blind hem that won't show on the right side of the fabric.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Ironing board
• Iron
• Sewing machine
• Blind hem foot
• Thread to match garment
• Needle for lightweight fabrics (10 to 12 or 70 to 80)

1. Fold the hem up ¼ inch, tucking the raw edges as you would for a regular double hem. Press the fold with your iron set on a low steam setting.

2. Set your stitch length at about 2 to 2.5. This is a good starting point for lightweight fabric, but if the stitches pucker, adjust the stitch length accordingly.

3. Turn the folded fabric back and position it under the blind hemming foot with the guide evenly against the fold and a small amount of the hem allowance to the right of the foot.

4. Stitch in the hem allowance and allow the zigzag stick to barely catch the fold of the fabric. Start stitching about 3/8 inch from the edge. Hold the needle thread and bobbin thread tightly to prevent the feed dog from pulling the fabric. If you still have trouble, put a piece of tearaway interfacing or tissue paper under the fabric at the beginning of the seam. Remove the paper when you're done.

5. Press the stitching, but don't press the actual folded hem. The hem should have a rounded, soft edge.

Tips & Warnings

• Clean the bobbin area regularly because it can fill with lint and fluff quickly, making stitching more difficult.
• If the fabric snags, your needle is probably dull. Hem lightweight fabrics with a new needle.
• If you have extra fabric available, practice on a small piece of fabric before you begin the hem. Notice how the blind hem foot works and if the stitch length needs adjusting.