How to Do a Blind Hem on Lightweight Fabrics

Hemming lightweight fabrics can be more difficult than working with heavier fabrics. You must apply nearly professional sewing skills to create a blind hem that won't show on the right side of the fabric.

Things You'll Need

  • Ironing board
  • Iron
  • Sewing machine
  • Blind hem foot
  • Thread to match garment
  • Needle for lightweight fabrics (10 to 12 or 70 to 80)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Fold the hem up ΒΌ inch, tucking the raw edges as you would for a regular double hem. Press the fold with your iron set on a low steam setting.

    • 2

      Set your stitch length at about 2 to 2.5. This is a good starting point for lightweight fabric, but if the stitches pucker, adjust the stitch length accordingly.

    • 3

      Turn the folded fabric back and position it under the blind hemming foot with the guide evenly against the fold and a small amount of the hem allowance to the right of the foot.

    • 4

      Stitch in the hem allowance and allow the zigzag stick to barely catch the fold of the fabric. Start stitching about 3/8 inch from the edge. Hold the needle thread and bobbin thread tightly to prevent the feed dog from pulling the fabric. If you still have trouble, put a piece of tearaway interfacing or tissue paper under the fabric at the beginning of the seam. Remove the paper when you're done.

    • 5

      Press the stitching, but don't press the actual folded hem. The hem should have a rounded, soft edge.

Tips & Warnings

  • Clean the bobbin area regularly because it can fill with lint and fluff quickly, making stitching more difficult.

  • If the fabric snags, your needle is probably dull. Hem lightweight fabrics with a new needle.

  • If you have extra fabric available, practice on a small piece of fabric before you begin the hem. Notice how the blind hem foot works and if the stitch length needs adjusting.

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