How to sharpen a straight razor for shaving
Want to relive the days when a man could get a good shave without spending hundreds each year on replacement blades, when craftsmanship meant something. Well, if you want to use a straight razor, you have to get it sharp first. If your razor hurts as it goes across your face, it's not sharp enough. Here's how to get it up to snuff.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate
Instructions
Things You'll Need
- Straight razor
- leather strop (a flat belt will also work in a pinch)
- Optional a fine honing stone.
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Choose whether you want to hone the razor yourself or have someone do it for you. It's something that has to be done rarely, but you need to strop (see below) every time you shave.
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Even a new razor usually must be honed (sharpened with a stone) and stropped on leather before use. There are professional honing services available and you may be able find a local barber willing to do it for free.
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The first stroke:
If you choose to do it yourself, the honing stone should be extremely fine. Lay the side of the blade perfectly flat. Both the back and edge should touch the stone as you push the blade across diagonally with the edge forward.
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Second stroke:
After the first stroke, don't pick the blade up. Instead, turn it along the back of the razor and position the other side flat against the stone, then hone the other side of the blade.
Use only light, slow strokes and keep your fingers away from the blade's path. Be sure length of stroke and number of strokes are the same for each side of the blade. A razor's edge is very thin and delicate any unequal motion has a profound affect on the edge.
You do not hone every shave. In fact, I only hone my razors about twice a year. -
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Stropping:
After honing, the edge must be smoothed on a leather strop. The strop, not the stone, is what you will use to maintain the edge. You only hone when the edge is so worn, you can not strop a sharp edge. -
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One can purchase a strop second-hand and new ones are available on the internet.You can also use a flat belt in a pinch. I made my first strop by gluing smoothed leather to a board. More recently, I've been using a strop I purchased from my barber.
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The motions for stropping are the same as the those used in honing, only the blade is reversed so the edge is on the trailing end of the stroke. You don't strop the edge as if you were in a spreading-butter-on-bread contest, despite what you may have seen on television. Keep the blade flat and move it slow enough to control the motion. Again, be careful none of your fingers are in the way, keep children away while honing, stropping or shaving and concentrate on what you are doing. It's actually easier to severely cut your finger during honing and stropping if you are careless than it is your face during shaving.
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Tips & Warnings
Get at least two razors if you can. You can shave with only one razor, but manufacturers, such as Dovo, suggest allowing the razor to "rest" for 24-48 hours before using again.
Need help? Look in the phone book. Find a barber. More young barbers are offering straight razor shaves these days and for older barbers, familiarity with the straight razor was a basic requirement in barber school. They will likely be more than happy to share their know-how.
Need a razor? Most people find them in antique shops or on Ebay. You usually won't pay a lot of money, but be wary of rust or chips in the razor, especially near the edge.
Most people have older, used razors. They represent fine craftsmanship and are available a at little cost. If you want a new one, the German company Dovo still makes them. They are pricey, but think how much you'll save not buying Mach 3 replacement blades.
The best razors are, or have been, made in Germany, England and the United States. If the razor says "Pakistan" or "China"... run!
Sharpening a straight razor is more dangerous than actual shaving if you aren't careful. BE CAREFUL! Pay attention to what you are doing. Do not apply too much force (in fact the razor should be held against the stone or strop solely with its own weight). There should be virtually no force applied to push the razor down.
Keep your razor clean and free of rust. Rinsing it off and applying mineral oil after each shave will help it last.
Keep AWAY FROM CHILDREN. Keep the razors where curious children can not reach it. Also, be careful of children when you do this. Not only for their safety, but yours as well. If a child runs into you while you are working with a razor, somebody can get cut.
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Comments
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I inherited one from my dad and I think he got it from my gr.father. I am going to try to sharpen it. What grit shouold the stone be?
