How to Create Hair Wispiness and Separation

Cutting hair is both a science and an art. After you create the overall shape of the cut it's time to go back and add details, remove and bulkiness or unevenness, and add texture and separation for a well-blended look. Using a razor requires more skill than using shears but creates unparalleled movement and texture for layered cuts.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

1. Begin with the right kind of razor. A straight razor is a great tool, but it's also difficult to control and hard to work with for a lot of stylists. A razor comb with a sharp replaceable blade and a guide is best for detailing and creating separation and wispiness.

2. Keep hair parted and clipped into quarter sections and begin with lower layers at the back of the hair and work your way to the top layers. Then move on to the sides and finish with the front of the hair.

3. Create separation by lightly holding the razor at a 45 degree angle. Do short horizontal strokes against the lower portion of the hair. Start in the back. Go slow and avoid the temptation to razor too much of the hair, especially if the client has frizz prone or super fine hair.

4. Add wispiness and lightness to the cut by using the razor vertically across the hair. For this technique, hold the razor at a 75 degree angle and then use longer, light strokes in an up and down looping motion in the upper layers of the cut.

5. Stop frequently to look at your work as you continue detailing with the razor. You can't add hair back in once it's cut, so use a light touch and don't overdo it.

6. Follow each cutting stroke with a comb to pull any cuttings out of the hair and give you an idea of how it will lay. Feel through the cut for bulk and unevenness as you go along and make corrections as needed. Keep a pair of buttercuts or similar shears on hand to clean up any areas that need more blending.

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