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Step 1
Choose the direction that you will fell the tree. From that direction, cut a level slice 3/4 through the tree trunk, a few feet off the ground. Take care not to cut deeper than 3/4 of the trunk. Remember, you can always cut farther with a second attempt but do not cut too deep.
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Step 2
Tilt the chainsaw to cut at a 30-degree downward angle. Beginning 3 inches above the original cut for a small tree or up to 8 inches above the original cut for a large tree, make the angled cut. The two cuts must meet 3/4 of the way through the trunk. If not, adjust the chainsaw angle and make a second cut.
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Step 3
Remove the wedge from the tree. Ensure that all people and equipment are safely out of the tree's path, and move to the other side of the trunk.
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Step 4
Make a 30-degree downward angled cut to the backside of the trunk. As you reach the wedge, the tree should begin to fall. Watch the top of the tree, not the notched area, to see which direction it is falling. Be prepared to move quickly in case you need to get out of the way.














Comments
PoliceMan9940 said
on 11/6/2009 i agree with these two i also cut trees around the power lines for a long time. absolutely no room for error. there are different ways to do things but this is not one of them. i suggest if there are ANY hazards such as a House, Garage, Fences, power lines, (if it is not in the woods or very large open area seek profesional help. trees are dangerous and kill people every day dont be a statistic. when in doubt ask for help
tricksntrees said
on 11/6/2009 This article is absolutely incorrect. You never cut that far into the notch. You'll pinch your saw by the time you get 3/4 into the tree.
Make your bottom cut first - about 1/3 of the way into the tree - then cut down at a 30-45 degree angle(depends on the lean and size of the tree) so that your two cuts meet 1/3 of the way through the tree. For most trees it is much more practical to use a lateral back-cut, but you must do so at the same level as the bottom of your notch or you're likely to lose the hinge. I ought to know, I trim and remove trees around powerlines for a living.
Also: @credit: I use a downward back-cut on small trees daily, but with a lateral slash halfway through the front instead of a notch. Works great for gnarly twisted little birches.
credit4you said
on 5/12/2009 look at this expert tree feller at this site for example http://www.metacafe.com/watch/278681/tree_felling_with_chain_saw_bore_cut_demo/he does it a little different then my friend would but it the same principle.
credit4you said
on 5/12/2009 For one thing there is no way I would cut 3/4 of the tree away in the first cut ask any tree (feller) and he will tell you this is not true. This is such inaccurate information not to mention that it is unsafe. If you cut 3/4 of the tree away while you are standing in front of it, then you get a gust of wind this tree may just snap off its stump. And you never cut down on the back cut. Look at a area that has been logged and take a glance at all the stumps. Your way leaves a pointy stump not a nice flat surface when you are done. You could get away with this on a very small tree for like pruning but a large tree. Just my opinion. My best friend is a logger