Things You'll Need:
- Scrap Lumber
- Screws
- Drill
- Table saw or hand saw
- Tape Measure or ruler
- Screwdriver
- router
- jigsaw
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Step 1
A new box ready to be positioned on a tree near a marshA beautifully natural wood duck nesting box will attract these beautiful ducks to almost any marshy wetland where they are positioned. Predators such as snapping turtles, raccoons and hawks take a toll on these gorgeous ducks so your efforts to help increase their population will give nature lovers and yourself great pleasure.
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Step 2
using rough grade and scrap lumber keeps down costsUsing rough and/or scrap lumber you will cut out six main pieces to construct your attractive wood duck haven. Here, John is drawing a diagram of the bottom piece on rough lumber. We acquired this scrap from a friend who owns a portable sawmill. We allowed the the pieces to dry for several months before beginning the wood duck boxes.
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Step 3
The six pieces that will make up the final boxHere are the 6 pieces we will need when we are done. You will need a top (or roof), a bottom, two sides, a front and a back
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Step 4
John is using a table saw with a guard for cutting through the thick woodYou will begin by making the top piece. This piece is 14" by 15" and can be larger if you like the roof to have more overhang. 14 by 15 is the MINIMUM size you can use.
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Step 5
The back will connect to a treeThe back, like the top, can be longer and wider, but needs to be a MINIMUM size of 11" wide by 30" long. (The excess on this pieces is what will help you hang the box on a tree or pole)
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Step 6
Front allows access for the ducksThe front piece is very important and will be 10" by 23" high. We will do the hole after all the other pieces are cut
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Step 7
The bottom piece is the smallest piece we cut.The bottom piece measures 7-1/2" by 10-3/4" and is the smallest piece we will cut. Some people like to hinge the bottom or the front for cleaning out the box every year. This is an option for you.
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Step 8
Sides slant down to accommodate roof.The SIDES must be measured and cut carefully because the entire shape of the box depends on these 2 side pieces. The bottom of this piece is 11 inches wide, the top of this piece is 12 inches wide. The left side (which will connect with the BACK of the box) is 24 inches tall. The right side (which will connect with the FRONT of the box) is 23 inches tall. You will need to cut out TWO of these pieces.
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Step 9
Front hole shape lets in ducks, deters predators!Now, the important front HOLE for the ducks to enter. The CENTER of this hole needs to be 6" down from the top and 5" in from either side. The hole itself is 4" wide by 3" high and is an OVAL. The oval shape accommodates a wood duck but NOT a raccoon! John made the hole by drilling 4 holes on the outside diameter and then using a jigsaw to connect the holes into an oval.
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Step 10
Make aA mistake often made in Wood Duck nesting boxes is leaving the insides too smooth. In nature, the baby ducks have to climb up to the hole to get out--same with our box. You can put tiny wire mesh on the surface below the hole, or, use our example and with a router, you can create a "ladder" for the babies to exit. We also used rough wood inside as this is a steep vertical climb. This routing is about 1/4 inch deep.
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Step 11
Starting the assembly with a clampBegin assembling with a clamp holding the 2 sides and bottom together (a 4th scrap piece is used for support in this step but will be discarded after the 3 pieces are attached)
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Step 12
Drilling holes for screwsLong, sturdy screws are needed for this project. These are 2-1/2" and 3" long. Holes, slightly smaller than your screw diameter, are drilled first using a 5/32" drill bit. You should use screws twice as long as your wood is thick (e.g. 1" board= 2" screws) and use a drill bit slightly SMALLER in diameter than your screw diameter.
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Step 13
Attaching the screws in through the drilled holes.Next, using an electric driver driver drill or screwdriver attach the screws. The screws go into the wood and connect the pieces about every 4-5 inches.
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Step 14
Space the screws and attach the frontThe front piece is added next (make sure your routed ladder faces to the INSIDE). Again, the holes are drilled first, then screws are used to attach the front. You can see the approximate spacing for the screws in this photo.
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Step 15
View of the inside with the ladderThe inside should now look like this with the supporting ladder inside and under the hole for the babies to use when they are mature enough to exit the nest.
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Step 16
Add the roof so it overhangs in frontNow the top piece which will be the roof, will be mounted. Make sure the back lines up evenly and any overhang comes out front over the hole and evenly over the two sides. Again, the back needs to be flush. The overhang protects the entrance from bad weather. Make sure the roof is tilting DOWN and FORWARD. Use same drill and screw procedure to attach.
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Step 17
Adding the back pieceNow, we add the largest piece--the back. This piece will overhang at the top AND the bottom. (It can also extend beyond the sides if you wish) This piece is what you will use for attaching your box to a pole or a tree.
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Step 18
Almost done!Another photo to show the final addition of the back piece and approximate spacing of screws. Attach this piece as you did the others by drilling holes and then attaching larger screws through the same holes.
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Step 19
A few finished boxes for our fine feathered friends!These photo shows you some of our finished wood duck nesting boxes in the work shop and ready to be mounted this spring.
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Step 20
Waiting for wood ducks!Here, we show one of our boxes made last year, hanging on a dead tree. Try to face the hole toward the nearest water. Hang the box 7 to 12 feet off the ground. We have mounted these boxes various ways including spikes, lag screws, and/or straps. We also put raccoon deterrents around the base when possible.
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Step 21
Mama Wood duck with white around her eyes will thank you!The beautiful, colorful, wood ducks with their high-pitched scree-scree when they call their babies out of the nest, will thank you!













Comments
brksmith2 said
on 9/10/2008 This is great! Thanks for posting such helpful pictures. I was able to find other instructions on the web, but just could NOT get how the ladder was made. I thought it was supposed to be angled somehow, and now I see that it is okay if the ladder is completely vertical. I like this version made with a router better since it does not have wire that could poke the ducks. Thanks so much. We will be adding one of these to a small stand of trees at our cottage with clear access to our lake. Can't wait to get our first family!! Barb