Step1
A new box ready to be positioned on a tree near a marsh
A beautifully natural wood duck nesting box will attract these beautiful ducks to almost any marshy wetland where they are positioned. Predators such as snapping turtles, raccoons and hawks take a toll on these gorgeous ducks so your efforts to help increase their population will give nature lovers and yourself great pleasure.
Step2
using rough grade and scrap lumber keeps down costs
Using rough and/or scrap lumber you will cut out six main pieces to construct your attractive wood duck haven. Here, John is drawing a diagram of the bottom piece on rough lumber. We acquired this scrap from a friend who owns a portable sawmill. We allowed the the pieces to dry for several months before beginning the wood duck boxes.
Step3
The six pieces that will make up the final box
Here are the 6 pieces we will need when we are done. You will need a top (or roof), a bottom, two sides, a front and a back
Step4
John is using a table saw with a guard for cutting through the thick wood
You will begin by making the top piece. This piece is 14" by 15" and can be larger if you like the roof to have more overhang. 14 by 15 is the MINIMUM size you can use.
Step5
The back will connect to a tree
The back, like the top, can be longer and wider, but needs to be a MINIMUM size of 11" wide by 30" long. (The excess on this pieces is what will help you hang the box on a tree or pole)
Step6
Front allows access for the ducks
The front piece is very important and will be 10" by 23" high. We will do the hole after all the other pieces are cut
Step7
The bottom piece is the smallest piece we cut.
The bottom piece measures 7-1/2" by 10-3/4" and is the smallest piece we will cut. Some people like to hinge the bottom or the front for cleaning out the box every year. This is an option for you.
Step8
Sides slant down to accommodate roof.
The SIDES must be measured and cut carefully because the entire shape of the box depends on these 2 side pieces. The bottom of this piece is 11 inches wide, the top of this piece is 12 inches wide. The left side (which will connect with the BACK of the box) is 24 inches tall. The right side (which will connect with the FRONT of the box) is 23 inches tall. You will need to cut out TWO of these pieces.
Step9
Front hole shape lets in ducks, deters predators!
Now, the important front HOLE for the ducks to enter. The CENTER of this hole needs to be 6" down from the top and 5" in from either side. The hole itself is 4" wide by 3" high and is an OVAL. The oval shape accommodates a wood duck but NOT a raccoon! John made the hole by drilling 4 holes on the outside diameter and then using a jigsaw to connect the holes into an oval.
Step10
Make a
A mistake often made in Wood Duck nesting boxes is leaving the insides too smooth. In nature, the baby ducks have to climb up to the hole to get out--same with our box. You can put tiny wire mesh on the surface below the hole, or, use our example and with a router, you can create a "ladder" for the babies to exit. We also used rough wood inside as this is a steep vertical climb. This routing is about 1/4 inch deep.
Step11
Starting the assembly with a clamp
Begin assembling with a clamp holding the 2 sides and bottom together (a 4th scrap piece is used for support in this step but will be discarded after the 3 pieces are attached)
Step12
Drilling holes for screws
Long, sturdy screws are needed for this project. These are 2-1/2" and 3" long. Holes, slightly smaller than your screw diameter, are drilled first using a 5/32" drill bit. You should use screws twice as long as your wood is thick (e.g. 1" board= 2" screws) and use a drill bit slightly SMALLER in diameter than your screw diameter.
Step13
Attaching the screws in through the drilled holes.
Next, using an electric driver driver drill or screwdriver attach the screws. The screws go into the wood and connect the pieces about every 4-5 inches.
Step14
Space the screws and attach the front
The front piece is added next (make sure your routed ladder faces to the INSIDE). Again, the holes are drilled first, then screws are used to attach the front. You can see the approximate spacing for the screws in this photo.
Step15
View of the inside with the ladder
The inside should now look like this with the supporting ladder inside and under the hole for the babies to use when they are mature enough to exit the nest.
Step16
Add the roof so it overhangs in front
Now the top piece which will be the roof, will be mounted. Make sure the back lines up evenly and any overhang comes out front over the hole and evenly over the two sides. Again, the back needs to be flush. The overhang protects the entrance from bad weather. Make sure the roof is tilting DOWN and FORWARD. Use same drill and screw procedure to attach.
Step17
Adding the back piece
Now, we add the largest piece--the back. This piece will overhang at the top AND the bottom. (It can also extend beyond the sides if you wish) This piece is what you will use for attaching your box to a pole or a tree.
Step18
Almost done!
Another photo to show the final addition of the back piece and approximate spacing of screws. Attach this piece as you did the others by drilling holes and then attaching larger screws through the same holes.
Step19
A few finished boxes for our fine feathered friends!
These photo shows you some of our finished wood duck nesting boxes in the work shop and ready to be mounted this spring.
Step20
Waiting for wood ducks!
Here, we show one of our boxes made last year, hanging on a dead tree. Try to face the hole toward the nearest water. Hang the box 7 to 12 feet off the ground. We have mounted these boxes various ways including spikes, lag screws, and/or straps. We also put raccoon deterrents around the base when possible.
Step21
Mama Wood duck with white around her eyes will thank you!
The beautiful, colorful, wood ducks with their high-pitched scree-scree when they call their babies out of the nest, will thank you!
Comments
welch said
on 4/12/2008 Pretty neat