How to Wear a Tuxedo

Sure, nobody wears a tuxedo as well as James Bond, but if you put your tuxedo together correctly you might feel as sleek and sophisticated as Bond. The keys to looking elegant are simplicity and giving proper attention to details. Contrary to what many men think, formal wear does not allow for creative self-expression.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

1. First off, we should understand what the tuxedo is not. Though a tuxedo is formal, not all formal wear should be called a tuxedo or "tux." Full dress, or "white tie and tails," is not the same thing as a tuxedo, nor is a morning suit or "cutaway." Several years ago celebrities started wearing dark suits with weirdly-cut silk lapels and four-in-hand ties to the Oscars, and soon non-celebrity men started wearing these outfits to their weddings. These are not tuxedos either.
2. A tuxedo, or dinner jacket is black or midnight blue. The jacket itself is either single- or double-breasted, with either a silk or satin notched or satin shawl lapel. The single-breasted tuxedo is more formal than the double-breasted one. The tuxedo is worn with black or midnight blue trousers with one black silk band down the outer seam. Hold your pants up with braces or suspenders. Cuffs on formal trousers are inappropriate. A white dinner jacket is appropriate in the American South, the tropics or a sea cruise, but black or midnight blue trousers and black tie are worn.
3. A white shirt is worn with French cuffs and cuff links. The front of the shirt is either soft or starched and bib-like. Sometimes studs are worn in lieu of buttons on the shirt front. The front of the shirt is either plain or with very conservative pleating. Needless to say, ruffled shirts and cuffs went out with the 1970s. Colored shirts are best left to Las Vegas casino greeters. A handkerchief is worn in the breast pocket of the jacket. White or possibly red are good colors, but don't go too crazy with it.
4. Either a wing or turn-down collar is appropriate. On formal invitations male guests are often told to wear "black tie." This means a tuxedo. And only a black bow tie is appropriate with a tuxedo--not a red tie, a white tie, a four-in-hand or a western bolo with a longhorn skull. Don't get a clip-on and don't get a pre-tied bow tie with hooks on the side. If you're going to dress like a grown man, then you should learn how to actually tie ties like a grown man, and this includes bow ties.
5. Tuxedos are worn with either low-cut waistcoats or cummerbunds. A cummerbund is a sort of pleated sash that hides the line between the bottom of your shirt and the top of your trousers. It is worn with the pleats facing up. Black or burgundy are really the only good colors for a cummerbund. Cover your feet with black silk calf-length socks and black patent leather or highly polished black oxford shoes. If you're a hat man, and few men these days are, wear a black fedora or homburg with your tuxedo, but leave it in the coat check room. A top hat is inappropriate with a tuxedo, as are gloves. Never wear a tuxedo before 6 p.m. unless you are en route to an event that is starting after that time.

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