How to Replace the Instrument Cluster in a Ford Mustang (1994-2004)

Pulling out the instrument cluster is not as difficult as you might think. All you need are the right tools, about a half an hour to work and these directions to replace the instrument cluster in your Ford Mustang. You can also use these guidelines when you need to remove your cluster in order to replace bulbs or insert new colored gauges and other upgrades. Read on to learn more.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• T20 Torx driver
• Flat blade screwdriver or panel popper
• 90 degree pick
• ¼ inch drive hand ratchet with 6 inch extension
• 7mm socket
• Small container to hold parts (optional)
• Flashlight or mechanic's work light (optional)

1. 
    
   Work light, Torx driver, panel popper, 90 degree pick and ratchet with extension.

   Gather the tools you'll need for the job.

2. Tilt steering wheel all the way down to give yourself as much room as possible to work.

3. Pull headlight knob all the way out. Rotate until you see a narrow slot along the side.

4. 
    

   Insert 90 degree pick in slot. Work the pick behind the metal retaining clip inside, gently pulling it up as you simultaneously pull off the headlight knob. (Just pulling the knob off can cause damage to the retaining clip, meaning the knob in future will fall off onto the floor every time you try to use it).

5. Using the T20 Torx driver, remove the top two visible screws from the instrument cluster bezel.

6. 
    
   Instrument cluster with the bezel removed.

   Using a flat screwdriver or panel popper, carefully pry up the edges of the bezel until you can work it completely free. Start at the top where the screws were, as this area should be loose enough to insert the panel popper. Take your time! There are five clips holding the bezel in place; so it's important to work all the way around to loosen every clip. You don't want to pull up too soon and cause the bezel to crack.

7. 
    

   Now you have access to the instrument cluster. Using the 7mm socket, remove the 4 hex screws that are located at each corner.

8. 
    

   Grab edges of the cluster and pull out slightly. Do not pull all the way out. Rotate the cluster so that the gauges are upright. This will help you maneuver the cluster farther out and give you the easiest access to the connectors at the back.

9. 
    
   The cluster of wires will lead you to the connectors.

   There are two electrical connectors at the back, and you'll see lots of wires extending from these connectors to the car. Disconnect them by pushing the tab button on the top of each connector and pulling straight out. (Connectors are different colors and shapes, so you can't put them back in the wrong place).

10. You can now carefully remove the entire cluster from the car. To insert a new cluster, simply follow Steps 4 through 8 in reverse. See the Tips and Warnings sections.

11. Make sure the headlight switch stem is extended when you reattach the bezel. It makes it easier to align the knob over the stem and clip, and click back into place.

Tips & Warnings

• Every time you remove parts or screws, place them in the car's ashtray or use a small container. This way you can easily find them when you need to put them back in, and they won't roll away into some hidden corner of the car.
• Using a flashlight, especially if working in the garage, will help you to see the screws and connectors much more easily. Special work lights can be propped up and held more easily, or you can enlist a friend's help to hold the flashlight for you.
• It is recommended that you disconnect the car's battery before working on any of the electrical components.
• If your odometer is analog, the dealer should set it to your correct mileage when you come in to pick up the new cluster. Check with the dealer if you have a digital odometer. The dealer may need to program it after it's been installed.

Resources

• But Torx drivers and other tools at Snap-on
• Buy mechanic's work lights at Amazon

[ValerieDavid]

on 7/6/2009 Hey darryls,

I would check out N1979's advice below for replacing the gear, although the gear may not be the problem. Has the odometer stopped working completely, or is it not registering distance properly?

Most professional mechanics just replace the entire console, rather than separate gears. But it's important to diagnose the problem as well as you can before you replace parts.

[darryls]

on 7/4/2009 I'm also in need of some detailed instruction on replacing the gear for the odometer/trip meter in the instrument cluster. Could you send something to make life a bit easier for me?...LOL...I have a 97 Mustang GT. Speedometer working but odometer and trip meter are not. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks...DarrylS

[ValerieDavid]

on 3/20/2008 Thanks for the update, N1979! Glad everything worked out for you, and that this article got you on your way with the replacement. :)

[N1979]

on 3/17/2008 Prior comment continued:

Just snapped into place where the old one was.

The part came with a new spinner from the little motor to turn the gear as well. We used some large pliers to squeeze this into place as it was a tough push to get the spinner to fit down onto the turning pin from the motor.

These tips may sound strange, but they should make sense if anyone ever reads along as they work on the part and can see what I'm talking about.

I'm a novice at car repair too, if you couldn't tell by some of my descriptions.

Thanks for everything Valerie!

[N1979]

on 3/17/2008 I successfully replaced the odometer/trip meter gear after using these instructions to remove the instrument cluster. It was a pretty simple and logical repair.

Once the cluster was out, we took it inside and removed the screws holding the clear plastic cover to remove it. We then removed one or two others that held the face pieces (with the gauges and meters) in place and used a pocket knife to pry the face off the back.

Once we were this far, the gear unit was fairly simple to remove and could be worked with independently of the rest of the cluster package.

The odometer gear was totally rotten. The plastic it was made of would crumble by just touching it. I pulled it out of place with some needle nose pliers and used a thumb-tack to push the ends out of the slots it snaps down into. Inserting the new part (obtained from speedometergears_dot_com) was literally a snap.