How to Replace Brake Pads on 4 wheel disc brake vehicle

You can learn how to professionally install brake pads on a 4 wheel disc brake vehicle. Inspect vehicle for other brake related problems.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Hydraulic jack
• 4 jack stands
• Tire iron to remove wheels
• Set of Metric Sockets 3/8 drive
• Set of Torx Bits T40-T55
• 3/8 Hex Bit or L wrench
• 1/2 drive socket set
• Large Screwdriver or small pry bar
• Med-Lg ball peen hammer
• C-Clamp
• 1/2 inch Breaker bar
• Silicone base lubricant
• 1/2 drive torque wrench
• Dikes/wire cutter
• Ride - to have rotors machined at auto parts or machine shop
• Not all tools are used on all cars

1. JACKING: It's recommended that vehicle be on a level concrete surface while doing repair. Break loose all lug nuts while vehicle is on ground and in park. If front wheel drive block back wheels-and jack up front of car with hydraulic jack. Install jack stands under A-Frames or frame of vehicle. Once secured jack up rear and install jack stands under rear Axle. Once vehicle is secured, remove all four wheels from car. It's best to have all 4 wheels off the car at once in case you need to bleed the hydraulic system at a later point in time. *IMPORTANT* ALWAYS REMOVE CAP FROM MASTER CYLINDER AND CHECK TO SEE IF RUBBER SEAL ON CAP IS ENLARGED/OUT OF SHAPE/DOESN'T FIT CAP Correctly. If this condition exist. Stop immediately and TOW your vehicle to a qualified repair shop. Your system has been contaminated and you will probably need professional advice and repairs.

2. DISASSEMBLE: First break loose all bleeder screws with correct size socket or wrench and RETIGHTEN, being careful not to break them off. If necessary use anti-rust lube and tap caliper gently around bleeder/on bleeder screw to loosen corrosion. If bleeder breaks it will probably be necessary to replace the caliper with a new or rebuilt caliper. With wheels off determine socket or torx bit needed to remove calipers. (2 bolts) Loosen counter clockwise and remove bolts. Many applications you can remove the lower bolt, flip caliper up and slide caliper in to remove the caliper. Next use a large screwdriver or small pry bar to remove caliper from rotor. Next remove large bracket that the caliper attaches to. This bolt can range from a 14 mm socket up to 22 an higher. They are normally relatively tight, so you may want to use a 1/2 breaker bar if available. Remove pads from bracket and/or caliper, noting the position of pads, in/out, (sensor) for reassembly. Complete this step on all 4 wheels.

3. INSPECTION: Remove pads from caliper and/or bracket. Inspect pads for:
   Worn pads at or below specs
   Loose rivets or bonding to brake plate
   Cracked pads
   Flaking or chunks of pad
   Brake fluid contamination
   Pads should be replaced if any of these conditions exist.
   Pads should also be inspected for the following conditions:
   Wearing unevenly in/out pad = Caliper Sticking/Hardware corrosion
   Cracking = Usually caused by heat/Rebuild calipers
   Tapered wear(wedge appearance) on pads usually caused by hardware corrosion/contamination
   No wear = Caliper/Master cylinder malfunction
   If any or all of these conditions exist, chances are you need to do repairs on your hydraulic components or you will continue to have problems with wear, squeaks, vibration etc.

4. REMOVE ROTORS FROM HUB ASSEMBLY:
   It may be necessary to remove metal clad clips from lug nuts that secure rotor on from factory. Do this with a pair of dikes, dispose of these clips, it isn't necessary to replace them. Mark/index rotor position before removing them from vehicle. It may be necessary to pound the rotor off with a ball peen hammer. If this is the case, DO NOT HIT ON THE SURFACE WHERE THE PADS RIDE! Hammer hard and carefully in the center of the rotor between the lug studs being careful not to hit the stud. Examine Rotors color, texture. Black or Rust Colored rotors indicate extreme heat problems. Once again you may have hydraulic problems! Grooving/Warped: It is not easy to detect warp until the rotor is mounted on a lathe. It is highly recommended you have the rotors mic'ed and machined when replacing pads. If rotors are below manufactures specifications, replace rotors with new ones. Make sure to inspect and lubricate all sliding parts (pins in brackets)etc. All hardware should be clean and free from corrosion. Replace with new hardware if necessary. All rubber grommet, seals should be plyable, untorn and free of dirt, if not replace all rubber with new.

5. CALIPER INSPECTION:
   If you haven't loosened the bleeder screws do so now. Re-tighten. Check calipers for torn dust boots, broken pistons, seized pistons, Brake fluid leakage. This is the muscle of your brakes.
   it's purpose is to squeeze and release the piston in the caliper which in turn controls your pads. If in doubt about the integrity of these parts you should probably rebuild or replace them. If you have anti-lock brakes open bleeder before compressing piston back into the caliper with a c-clamp. Failure to do so may cause costly damage to your abs system. It will be necessary to bleed the hydraulic system after assembly w/ ABS. Without ABS it is not necessary to open bleeder at this point. The piston should move in with the c clamp relatively easy. If not, rebuild or replace calipers w/ rebuilt ones.

6. ASSEMBLY:
   Make sure to lubricate all points of the pad that ride on the caliper. This usually includes the ends of both pads and the back of the outer pad that rides against the caliper. DO NOT Lube the actual pad that rides on the rotor. Make sure all your hardware is in correct position.
   Make sure all anti rattle clips/separator clips are re-installed before sliding caliper back over pads. Installation is reverse of disassembly.

7. If it is necessary to bleed the vehicle do so at this point. Reasons to bleed:
   Any air into system. Just breaking bleeders loose should not cause you to bleed the system.
   Breaking bleeder screws to push in piston on ABS, you do need to bleed.
   Any type of Brake fluid leakage in master cylinder, calipers, wheel cylinders
   Replacement of any hydraulic part.
   See How to Bleed a vehicle

8. After bleeding always tighten bleed screws and connections.
   Always Test to make sure you have a good pedal before lowering vehicle or installing tires. If pedal in not sufficient Re Bleed until you have a good pedal. Once a good pedal is established install tires making sure to tighten all lug nuts to manufactures specifications. A torque wrench is required. Tighten lugs in a star pattern, firmly then to specification and to avoid rotors from warping and over/under tightening of lug nuts. Lower rear of vehicle first, then front. Do final torque on lug nuts after vehicle is lowered and in park. Always check master cylinder fluid level and make sure cap on master cylinder is securely on.

Tips & Warnings

• Try to use a 6pt wrench when breaking loose bleeder screws.
• Vise grips can be use on bleeder screws as a last resort
• Don't Skimp on repairs. Safety is what is most important.
• Follow recommended Bleeding sequence if bleeding is necessary.
• Use quality parts, it makes a big difference.
• Always double check your work. Kinked or twisted lines, loose bolts, etc.
• If it doesn't go easy don't force it. Something is probably not right
• Hand start all bolts to avoid stripping of threads.
• Be careful not to bend backing plates as they tend to rub on rotor and make noise. Removal of tire is necessary to cure this problem.
• Always use caution when jacking and securing vehicle on stands.
• Always check your brake pedal for fading, if it fades do not drive vehicle.
• Always check for leaks of brake fluid with any replaced component.
• Always test drive vehicle in a safe manor in case brakes fail.
• Always test drive

[snakey]

on 10/17/2008 how to change rear backing plates on 2002 4x4 silverado

[erichapman]

on 5/31/2008 You don't need to replace calipers often! This article makes it sound like that is part of a brake job.

In fact, calipers are meant to last a long time (usually cast in heavy duty iron) and are even rebuildable.

These are expensive parts containing machines surfaces.