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Step 1
Become an associated member of the AMGA.
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Step 2
Become a Wilderness First Responder.
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Step 3
Complete the other prerequisites for the Rock Instructor Course.
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Step 4
Complete the ten-day Rock Instructor Course. The RIC trains aspiring guides on routes up to Grade III in length and 5.9 in difficulty.
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Step 5
Complete the Rock Instructor Exam (six days). The first five days of the exam are conducted on routes chosen by the examiners. During the RICE candidates will be examined on climbs through Grade III and up to 5.10a in difficulty. Participants are required to solve a specific rescue scenario at a scheduled time. In addition, impromptu rescue situations can occur at any time during the exam.
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Step 6
Complete the Rock Guide Course. The ten-day RGC covers the tools used when guiding and instructing multiple clients on longer routes up to Grade V in length. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, simultaneous multi-client belaying, lowering and rappelling, management of transitions, and short roping and short pitching techniques.
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Step 7
Complete the 6-day Rock Guide Exam. At this point, you will be expected to guide 2 clients at a 5.10b/c level up to and through grade V on sight, climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10 level fluidly and comfortably, demonstrate a proficient short roping and transitions techniques in technically demanding terrain, demonstrate a working knowledge of industry standards in equipment, create and implement improvised rescue in vertical terrain, use the right technique at the right time, demonstrate proficient terrain assessment, potential hazard, risk management and client care.
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Step 1
Learn to use a map and compass.
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Step 2
Complete the other prerequisites for the Alpine Guide Course.
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Step 3
Complete the Alpine Guide Course. The course area often includes but is not limited to non-glaciated, alpine terrain in the Rocky Mountains and the North Cascades.
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Step 4
Complete the Advanced Alpine Guide Course. The 12-day AAGC is designed for skilled climbers who wish to further develop their skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding in a glaciated alpine setting. The course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing on routes up to and including Grade V in length. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical descents, management and movement of multiple clients and small team rescue skills.
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Step 5
Complete the Alpine Guide Exam (ten days). At this point, you should be able to guide two clients at a 5.10a level up to grade V in an alpine rock environment in rock shoes on-sight, move efficiently and quickly with two clients in alpine terrain by transitioning between short-roping and short-pitching techniques, climb traditional and sport protected climbs at a 5.10 level fluidly and comfortably, climb Waterfall Ice 4 fluidly and comfortably, move over 4th class and easy 5th class terrain fluidly and comfortably in mountain boots, comfortably employ Classic (French) crampon and ice axe techniques on terrain up to 50 degrees.
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Step 1
Complete the prerequisites for the 12-day Ski Guide Course.
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Step 2
Complete the Ski Guide Course. The course covers the tools used when guiding and instructing on multi-day ski tours. It also covers management of 3rd and 4th class terrain, technical ascents and descents, management and movement of multiple clients and small team rescues.
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Step 3
Complete the Ski Mountaineering Guide Course. The ten-day SMGC is designed for skilled skiers and climbers who wish to learn the skills and techniques used while instructing and guiding on complex glacial terrain.
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Step 4
Complete the Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam. At this point you should be able to comfortably ski black and double-black diamond terrain at a level well beyond the average recreational skier, ascend and descend on skis an average of 6000 vertical feet per day with little problem, move efficiently and quickly with two clients over 3rd, 4th and 5th class terrain using appropriate short-roping and short-pitching techniques, efficiently ski any type of snow up to 50 degrees in steepness with an appropriate-weight pack in complex glacial terrain, adapt to all snow conditions and demonstrate a repertoire of techniques required for a variety of situations and client profiles, teach techniques related to skiing in the backcountry and traveling in complex glacial terrain, demonstrate knowledge of and experience in at least one other medium (i.e. cross country telemark, splitboard), organize and perform a rescue and evacuation in rock, crevasse and sled scenarios, demonstrate a strong avalanche hazard and risk management plan that meets national and international standards.
