Things You'll Need:
- Reasonable expectations. An inexpensive used car is typically 10 to 15 years old, will show some wear, and will have 90,000 miles or more.
- A trusted, experienced, ASE-certified professional mechanic to inspect the car for you. He will charge you for this service, but this is well worth it.
- A willingness to do some research on the cars on your shortlist.
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Step 1
Where to look for your car:
I buy from private owners, not dealers. I regularly pore over classified-ad web sites such as www.craigslist.org, www.cars.com, and www.ebay.com. Beware of unscrupulous dealers posing as private sellers, so be sure to verify that the seller is indeed the private owner of the car, and that the car is legally titled in their name. -
Step 2
How to pre-screen your car:
Once you have found some possibilities, read them carefully. The ads should indicate the following:
Safety inspection passed within the last 4 months.
Most states have pretty rigorous safety inspection requirements. Usually these inspections cover the steering, suspension, brakes, doors, exterior lights, and safety equipment. Check with your state for inspection details. A freshly completed safety inspection is an indication that the car is worth a closer look.
Emissions inspection passed within the last 4 months.
Most localities also have a rigorous emissions inspection program. A failed or missing emission inspection could indicate moderate to severe mechanical or electrical problems.
Complete maintenance records since the car was new. Used cars with complete maintenance records are rare, but I've found them. So can you. But as you might surmise, cars with such a complete paper trail sell very quickly. If you need to take a couple hours off work to be the first to see a car, by all means do so. -
Step 3
Call the Seller:
Once you have some possibilities, start calling sellers. Be friendly. Otherwise, you risk making sellers defensive. Ask the seller to tell you anything else they know about the car. I have found that sellers often are forthcoming about the condition of the car when I'm genuinely friendly. The owner may tell you of needed repairs. If so, ask if the seller has gotten an estimate of the repairs. If the cost of the needed repairs blows your budget, then go on to the next car. If not, then, using the car's Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), buy a Carfax Vehicle History report. If the Carfax raises any red flags, reject this car. -
Step 4
Check the car in person:
Next, arrange a 20-minute test drive. When you arrive for the test drive, first review the paperwork. Verify that the Safety inspection windshield sticker is as fresh as advertised and check over the safety and emissions inspection reports. Next, carefully review the maintenance records (which are receipts for service work done on the car). Check the records against the maintenance schedule in the car's owner's manual. If any maintenance schedule items were missed or were severely late, do not buy this car. You want a car that has been well-maintained.
If the paperwork and test drive are OK, arrange with the seller for you to take the car to be checked by your mechanic. An honest seller will cheerfully let you do this. A dishonest seller will resist. If they resist, go on to the next car. Even if you don't know what a cylinder compression test, a leak-down test, or a transmission stall-test is, ask your mechanic to do them and give the car a good going over.
If the car passes muster with your mechanic, you may have just found your car! Happy Cruising!
Comments
amylaine said
on 6/27/2008 Great advice
mattlee said
on 6/23/2008 sounds good
mchapman said
on 6/20/2008 good advice, my son is in the process of selling his car. I will show him this article.....Mary
pianistic said
on 6/12/2008 Great!
Limowreck said
on 6/12/2008 Fantastic article. Excellent advice. I have always thought collision insurance and interest payments were ridiculous expenses. Thanks for the great car buying tips!