Things You'll Need:
- Aquarium - how many gallons is up to you
- Aquarium Stand
- Light
- Under Gravel Filter
- Power Filter
- Heater only for tropical fish
- Gravel
- Natural rocks
- Air Stone
- Plastic or real plants
- Dechlorinator
- Starter bacteria or a cup of water from an established aquarium
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Step 1
PLACEMENT AND PUTTING IT TOGETHER - Many aquariums come in a kit of some kind that includes light, filter and heater. Stands are often sold separate. Set the aquarium up in a location where it will not be hit by direct sunlight to avoid excess algae growth. Some aquariums will come with a light and filtration system all in one in a top. It all depends on what company it comes from. The light should ideally be full spectrum like daylight especially if you want to grow live plants. Live plants are not recommended for gold fish as these fish are vegetarian and will destroy any planting. Both a power and under gravel filter should be used to provide both mechanical and biological filtration especially with gold fish as they produce more waste. Power filters are rated according to how many gallons the tank is to insure you purchase the right one for the job. Install the heater only if you will house tropical fish. The air stone is needed in both cold water and tropical environments to keep the water well oxygenated. They come in many sizes and styles and can be hidden among the aquarium decor.
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Step 2
GRAVEL & DECOR - Once all the under gravel filter parts are put in place put in gravel after it has been rinsed of all dust. This should be two inches deep in front and built up in a hill three inches or so at the back. Place the plants in next making sure bases are well buried if plastic and roots well covered if live. Natural rocks may be added for an interesting underwater landscape after they are washed in salt and water or plastic rocks may be used. NEVER USE SOAP on anything in the aquarium or you will kill the fish. It is best not to add any of those air powered animated curios as they contain too many sharp edges that can injure fish. An underwater landscape that is natural is better. Also avoid sea shells as the calcium and lime content can cause a water chemistry imbalance.
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Step 3
WATER & FILTRATION - Water can be added at this point, but be gentle so plants and other decor are not disturbed. A good way is to pour the water slowly over the largest rock to disburse the force. Fill the aquarium to within an inch of the top. Start up the filters and put in the dechlorinator. Let the filter run over night to rid the water of cloudiness caused by gravel dust and then add a starter culture of good bacteria or a cup of water from an aged healthy aquarium that will set up a colony in the filters.
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Step 4
FISH - This is often the hard part for those starting in the hobby. Let the aquarium age one to two weeks before putting in any fish. The reason being the live plants need to get acclimated and the good bacteria need time to grow. This is crucial for a healthy aquarium. When fish are added a good formula to avoid over crowding is for tropicals two inches of fish body length per gallon and for goldfish one inch of fish body length per gallon. For a healthy aquarium DO NOT put goldfish in with tropicals. They have different temperature needs. Gold fish prefer and are healthiest in water around 65 degrees. Do not add all the fish at once as it will shock the filtration system and a cloudy water will indicate a bacterial problem. It is best to add one or no more than two fish at a time.
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Step 5
AQUARIUM HEALTH - To keep everybody healthy test water for acidity once a week and adjust the PH according to what the species of fish prefers. Kits are available for this. Water changes are also done according to species. A good recommendation for tropicals is a 1/3 change of water once a month with a check, rinsing or change of filter pads and charcoal that should be done at this time. For goldfish a 1/3 change of water should be done twice a month with a check, rinsing or change of filter pads and charcoal. Goldfish should NEVER be kept in a bowl as it gets toxic very quickly with waste with no filtration. Feed according to species and DO NOT overfeed. Remember fish are always hungry mainly because that part of their brain does not shut off. Your local pet shop should carry a good variety of dry and live food.
Comments
CritterMaster said
on 9/10/2008 On the question of turning a salt water aquarium to a fresh water aquarium and the worry about salt. The best and safest way I know to clean any aquarium is actually the use of salt water followed by a rinse. Scrub off any residue of minerals in corners you find in the aquarium, rinse several times and put in a new filtration system and it should all be fine. A small salt content in fresh water is no problem as it acts to kill harmful bacteria. There are times when I have added salt to fresh water for that purpose. I would be more concerned with keeping an eye on the Ph and knowing what the fish species you want in the tank can tolerate. Example: most goldfish and koi prefer a 5-7 Ph. CRITTER MASTER
hrsegdess said
on 7/18/2008 i have a fresh water tank that was once a saltwater tank. how can i be sure that i have cleaned everything enough that the salt level is not too high? how can i tell and if it is how do i lower the salt content?