How to Build a Modern Stickley Morris Chair

The Morris Chair by Gustav Stickley is probably the most famous piece of furniture from the American Arts and Crafts Movement. You can build your own updated version of this classic piece and wow all your friends.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• (2) 10 foot long 2x4s
• (4) 8 foot long 5 inch x 3/4 inch planks (whitewood is fine)
• (4) 1 inch wide and 1 1/2 inch deep corbels
• (1) 15 inch x 22 inch piece of 3/4 plywood
• Tape measure
• Circular or Table Saw
• Miter Saw
• Jigsaw
• Drill
• Self Sinking Wood Screws
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Clamps
• Wood filler or Screw Hole Plugs
• Sander/sandpaper
• Paint or Stain
• Lacquer

1. Make these Cuts:
   From the 2x4s:
   4 pieces @ 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch x 24 1/4 inches (LEGS)
   2 pieces @ 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch x 34 inches (BACK)
   2 pieces @ 22 inches long (no trimming)(INSIDE SUPPORTS)
   2 pieces @ 12 inches long (no trimming)(INSIDE SUPPORTS)
   From the Planks:
   2 pieces @ 4 inches wide x 25 inches long (ARMS)
   2 pieces @ 4 inches wide x 15 inches long (SIDE RAILS)
   2 pieces @ 4 inches wide x 22 inches long (FRONT AND BACK RAILS)
   1 piece @ 4 inches wide x 23 inches long (BACK SUPPORT RAIL)
   4 pieces @ 4 inches wide x 18 inches long (BACK SLATS)
   6 pieces @ 2 1/2 inches wide x 14 1/4 inches long (SIDE SLATS)

2. Sand all surfaces.

3. 
   side

   Build the Sides. Measure up 6 inches from the bottom of 2 legs. Lay the legs flat, and place a 4 inch x 15 inch side rail between them. Make sure its bottom is flush with your mark. Attach (you can either screw through the leg or pocket screw from the rail into the leg). Using pocket screws, attach 3 evenly spaced 2 1/2 inch side slats to the rail. They will be flush with the top of the legs. Stand your side up and attach the arm. The will hang over the inside edge (the edge where the slats and rail are flush) by 1/2 inch. It will hang over the outside edge 2 inches. It will hang over the front edge 2 inches and over the back 5 inches. Finally center and attach a corbel to each leg so that it is flush with the bottom of the arm. See image for your finished side. Repeat with a mirrored version for the other side.

4. 
   back

   Span the two sides using the (2) 4 inch x 22 inch rails. Place one at the back and one at the front even with the other 4 inch rails and flush with the inside edge of the legs. Using a jigsaw, cut out 1/2 inches wide and 3 inches deep from both sides of the 4 inch x 23 inch rail. See diagram. Attach. Its widest part will sit on top of the arms.

5. Build the back. Miter the bottoms of the back (the 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch x 34 inch pieces) @ 12 degrees. Span the 2 pieces with the 4 back slats. Measure down 1 inch from the top and space evenly.

6. Attach inside supports. Place the 2x4 inside supports 3/4 inch down from the top of the side and center rails. Screw into place.

7. Attach the plywood seat. It will fit snugly between the sides and center on top of the inside rails. Make sure it is flush with the top of the rails. Attach.

8. Attach the back. Attach it so that it leans against the upper back support and the mitered ends are down and flush on top of the plywood seat.

9. Fill all holes with wood filler or plugs. Sand smooth.

10. Paint or stain to your liking. Apply two coats of lacquer to protect your chair. Sand lightly between coats.

Tips & Warnings

• You can make or buy cushions to make the chair more comfortable.
• Traditional Arts and Crafts furniture making employs mortise and tenon joints. This chair does not.
• Never paint or stain without proper ventilation.