How to Rock Climb in Potrero Chico, Hidalgo, Mexico

Potrero Chico, Mexico, is a fairly well-known location to climb. The mountain is huge (2000 ft), the rock is awesome (over 500 bolted routes), and the environment is great for multi-pitch or single-pitch climbs. Accommodations are within a half mile of the climbs.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You’ll Need:

• climbing harness
• climbing shoes
• climbing helmet (VERY IMPORTANT)
• 70 meter rope
• other climbing gear
• climbing guidebook

1. Some great climbs on Jungle Wall Decide when you want your trip to be, and how long. The winter months are best because they are the coolest. The most crowded time is the holiday season because people have enough time off to make the trip. A week or more is an ideal length; you will have enough time to try new routes and maybe take some day trips to the hot springs or in to Monterrey.
2. Dane Bass has bolted many of these routes. There are two major authors of climbing guides for Potrero Chico. One author is Magic Ed, who has bolted many routes at Potrero, and who writes new editions of "Climb El Potrero Chico" about every year, and has published "Select Potrero Chico," a book of the best climbs. His website is http://www.climbelpotrerochico.com/index.html
   The second author is Dane Bass. He has published a climbing guide entitled "The Whole Enchilada." His book is available at REI and online.
3. Tami is on the left. She's silly. Grab your gear, your guidebook, and a campsite or hotel room. Find a climbing partner and head on out to the rock. There are people there who will guide you through Potrero the first time, or you can just wing it with a guidebook. Magic Ed and Tami have a cafe right near the rock (http://www.climbelpotrerochico.com/TamisCafe.html) where you can go hang out and meet other climbers. Tami also has guidebooks for sale. La Posada has other guidebooks and guides to hire out.
4. Wear a helmet. For reals. A climbing helmet is absolutely required. It's nice if you know how to multi-pitch because some of the most awesome routes are very very long. Most of the pitches are at least 50 feet up, so a 70 meter rope is necessary. Leave your shorter ropes at home.
5. Throw out your trash when you go to Grutas de Garcia. If you want a day off from climbing, go into Hidalgo to the market, Monterrey for sight-seeing, the caves at Grutas de Garcia, or to the hot springs.

Tips & Warnings

• This is an experience every rock climber should have. Truly a great time with the rock.
• Never forget that rock climbing is a dangerous sport and should not be taken lightly. On such long routes care should be taken to double-check your protection.