How to Eliminate Rust From A Car

Rust can eat away at your car's fenders, doors, wheel wells and create holes in the floor and trunk unless you tend to it. You can take steps to eliminate rust and protect your car against it in the future.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Rust scuff pad
• 60- and 120-grit sandpaper
• Cutting tools such as metal snippers, hack saw, power metal saws or cutting grinder
• Rust treatment spray or naval jelly
• Auto body primer
• Scratching awl
• Small grinder.
• Hand tools to remove body molding and trim
• Paper face mask
• Heavy duty work gloves
• Safety goggles

1. 
   Lot's of rust hiding under the paint and trim. Probing will uncover it all!

   Survey the car to locate all the rust. Closely examine the lower half of the car. Determine if you have just surface rust below the paint with little metal decay, or if the rust has eaten away the metal itself. You may have to remove the body trim or moldings to do a proper survey.
   Bubbles in the paint is a sign that rust is below. Definite rust holes that are obvious can be noted, and check around and below any body trim, emblems or moldings, which are hot spots for rust.

2. For surface rust that has not eaten through the metal, use your rust scuffer or 60-grit sandpaper to sand clean the entire area surrounding the rust, at least 2 inches out. You want to have nothing but shining metal surrounding the surface rust. Concentrate on the rust spots with your 60-grit paper until it is fairly smooth.

3. 

   Test the area you just cleaned before you go any further. Poke your scratching awl in and around the rust spot to see if the rust has weakened the metal below the surface. This would mean the rust is active on the underside as well.

4. 
   Part of the rusted metal cut out and small holes grinded clean. Not there yet!

   If the scratching awl pokes through, use your small grinder and open up the holes completely. Grind or cut away with your snippers until you have solid, clean metal surrounding the opening.

5. If you have solid metal and no holes after probing with your awl, sand the area smooth with your 120-grit paper, and then treat the with your rust treatment spray or naval jelly, according to the label's instructions. Let the surface dry overnight before applying any top coating. The chemicals within the rust treatment neutralize any remaining rust and also treat the bare metal against future rust.

6. 
   All rust cut out, new metal welded in and body filler in place for smoothing!

   If you have very serious rust damage that has caused evident holes or rotting, for instance in a rear quarter panel or around a wheel well, remove any trim from the area and cut the entire rusted area out back to solid metal. Then grind and sand clean the edges and the metal to at least 2 inches around the cut out area. Sand with 120-grit and rust treat on both sides of the remaining metal.
   Ultimately you will need to replace bad metal sections cut out with new sheet metal.

Tips & Warnings

• Never leave raw steel in the open air untreated, even overnight. Rust will begin to accumulate quickly. Always treat raw metal with rust treatment spray or naval jelly, and then topcoat with primer the next day.
• Survey the underside of the rusted area whenever you find rust on the top side. Treat both sides of the metal if possible.
• Any rust not removed from an area will eventually reactivate, so take your time and remove it all.
• Consider where water or moisture accumulated to cause the rust and try to eliminate that problem for the future. Often, just drilling some holes will drain water away from it.
• Whenever using power tools, wear safety glasses.
• While sanding, wear a paper face mask.
• Don't handle the rust treatment spray or naval jelly with bare hands.
• Wear heavy gloves when probing for rust to avoid cutting your hands on the sharp, rusted metal edges.

[Blackbear]

on 12/5/2007 Wow ! A wealth of information. Rust is just nasty. Thanks!