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How to Belay From Above Using a GriGri Belay Device

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By Magicmel
User-Submitted Article
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A GriGri
A GriGri

When embarking on a multi-pitch climb, there will be times when the route requires the lead climber to belay from above as the second follows. Although there are many options when it comes to belay devices, many climbers prefer to use the auto-locking GriGri. This belay device is a good choice when you cannot see the second climber. When loaded correctly, a GriGri breaks the rope automatically if the second falls.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing shoes
  • Climbing helmet (strongly recommended)
  • Dynamic climbing rope (for multi-pitch routes, eHow recommends 10mm, 70m rope)
  • GriGri belay device
  • 2 Locking Carabiners
  • 2 Slings
  • 2 Carabiners
  • 2 Quickdraws (preferably with locking carabiners on the bottom)
  1. Step 1
     

    After you are safely clipped to the anchor and you have pulled up all excess rope, swing open the faceplate of the GriGri.

  2. Step 2
     

    Load the GriGri the same as when top-roping from below. Be careful to align the climbing end of the rope with the picture of the climber and the breaking end with the picture of the hand.

  3. Step 3
     

    Close the faceplate.

  4. Step 4
     

    Thread a locking carabiner through the double loop of the GriGri to trap it closed.

  5. Step 5
     

    Connect the carabiner to the anchor.

  6. Step 6

    Screw the gate closed.

  7. Step 7

    Give a quick tug on the climbing end of the rope to ensure the GriGri will cam over on the rope. Signal to your climber that she is “On Belay.”

  8. Step 8

    Pull out slack as your climber ascends the route.

Tips & Warnings
  • Although the GriGri is an auto-locking belay device, assume it will fail. Keep your hand on the breaking end of the rope just in case.
  • Always consult the instruction manual that accompanies any piece of climbing gear.
  • Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. Seek expert instruction before participating in this sport. Most climbing gyms offer a wide range of classes taught by certified instructors.
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