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How to Distinguish Between Chinese Regional Cuisines

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By jamesbankston
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We're all familiar with the American brand of Chinese cuisine, with its sweet and sour pork, chop suey, chow mein and fortune cookies. Many of these dishes originated in California in the 1850s when Chinese immigrants used American substitutions for Chinese ingredients. American prospectors embraced the cuisine because it was tasty and inexpensive. By the mid-twentieth century Chinese-American cuisine was about as exotic as most Americans were willing to go with their food.

Still, after the second or third trip to the buffet for another helping of gloppy, overly-sweet, MSG-laden General Tso's chicken, you have to wonder if there's something more to the food of the most populous nation on earth, and indeed there is. China is a vast country with many different regional cuisines, but various sources seem to disagree as to how many regional schools of cuisine there actually are.

Dr, Lee Su Jan's “The Fine Art of Chinese Cooking” (1962) lists five regions, while “Pearl S. Buck's Oriental Cooking” (1972) lists eight, Jennifer Brennan's “The Cuisines of Asia” (1984) lists four main regions, with several sub-regions and Sharon Tyler Herbst's “The New Food Lover's Companion” (2001) lists five; some sources list as many as thirty-one regional schools of cooking, with eighteen overseas variations. So in the interest of brevity and sanity, let us confine our study to five regional styles.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
  1. Step 1

    Cantonese
    Many of the Chinese dishes that were adapted to suit American tastes come from Canton, in the Kwantung province of southeastern China. It's known for grilled and roasted meats, sparingly used, as well as fried rice, salted black beans, bird's nest soup, sweet and sour pork, chicken velvet, shark's fin soup, steamed dumplings, sautéed beef in oyster sauce, Cantonese lobster, fermented bean curd and the various dishes that comprise dim sum. Fruit is is a popular ingredient, and soy sauce is heavily used. Cantonese dishes are frequently stir-fried to keep the food flavorful and fresh; little cooking oil is employed.

  2. Step 2

    Peking/Mandarin/Shantung
    This region, located in northeastern China, is the political, intellectual and cultural capital of the country. As it is a cultural melting pot, traces of Muslim, Mongolian and Manchurian influences can be seen, and indeed it was the Manchu Dynasty which instituted the tradition of Imperial food, with its famous three-day feasts.

    Peking food is elegant and exotic, with subtle, delicate seasonings and is often barbecued, deep-fried or cooked in chafing dishes. Its signature dish is Peking Duck, but the cuisine also includes soft-fried foods, noodles, spring rolls, dumplings, roasted meats, lamb, fish in sweet and sour sauce and Chinese-style pancakes. Since the region is too cold to allow for the cultivation of rice, steamed breads are often used in lieu of rice.

  3. Step 3

    Schezuan/Hunan
    Schezuan is located in western China. Thanks to heavy trading through the area this cuisine was heavily influenced by Indian cooking. The ancient tribes that settled in Thailand and Burma came from this region, so naturally the food here has some similarities with Thai and Burmese cooking. Schezuan cuisine is hot, spicy and oily, with chilies and red peppers, five-spice powder, garlic, green onions and ginger used liberally. Sauces are used only sparingly. The signature dishes are Schezuan duck and hot and sour soup, but the cuisine also makes good use of game, fowl, duck, pigs, beef and nuts. Smoking and pickling are common forms of food preservation here.

  4. Step 4

    Honan
    Located in central China, this region's rich cuisine varies between hot and spicy and sweet and sour. Popular dishes include spiced cabbage with pork and mu shu pork, Leeks, scallions and garlic are used heavily.

  5. Step 5

    Fukien
    Located on the east coast, this region naturally excels in seafood, but soups and broths are also popular, as are rice gruel and such preserved food as “hundred-year-old” buried eggs. Popular elements of the cuisine include red fermented bean sauce, wildfowl, rice gruel, dumplings and noodles. Sugar, vinegar and rice wine are used frequently in the preparation.

Tips & Warnings
  • According to Dr, Lee Su Jan, Chinese gourmets grade food by its freshness and tenderness, texture, color, smoothness, sweetness and purity.
  • Pearl S. Buck observed that Chinese cuisine had somewhere between 4,000 and 14,000 different dishes.

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