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Step 1
Use a jigsaw on softwood that is 1 to 1 ½ inch thick, or hard wood that is no more than ¾ inch thick.
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Step 2
Drill a ½ inch starter hole for cuts that start in the middle of the wood.
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Step 3
Use a coarse blade for quick cutting. Just realize the coarser the blade the more sanding will be needed later.
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Step 4
Choose appropriate blades for different materials. Check at your local home supply store for blades that can be used for metal and tile.
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Step 5
Position the saw shoe firmly on the work piece with the blade pointing away from the edge of the board.
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Step 6
Start the motor and guide the saw blade along the outside edge of your pre-drawn cutting lines.
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Step 7
Use a blade guide for straight cuts with a jigsaw. Position the saw shoe against the edge of the guide and cut along the straight line.
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Step 8
Try the jigsaw when making inside corner cuts that have been started with a circular saw. Press down firmly on the saw and hold tight to the cutting line.











Comments
rapidfishing said
on 2/1/2009 With hard lumber the finest blades break very easily. Make all your intricate and detailed cuts on soft wood, if possible.
If your jigsaw came with a plastic shoe, remove the cover if you can easily get it off. The plastic piece should only be used with cutting finish wood that will not be painted and only when you must cut from a side that will be visible to the eye. If the plastic shoe is leaving marks, clean it before making any fine cuts.
rapidfishing said
on 2/1/2009 New users sometimes have trouble getting the blade to cut strait down into the wood, even with the bevel zeroed out and the shoe in full contact with the board. This is because the natural instinct of these users is to push the saw in the direction that the cut curves. Never push the saw in any direction but forward or back (sometimes). When rounding curves and corners, TWIST the blade gently in the proper direction; do NOT push the saw sideways as you will cause the blade to bend and make unsightly cuts down the short axis of the board, like a sawzall often does.
Old wood can grab the blade and pull you along in your cut too fast. Hold on tight or get really good!
rapidfishing said
on 2/1/2009 For cleaner cuts face the outside of the board (or the side of the wood that everyone will see) down on the saw horses and cut from the rear. Because of the nature of the jigsaw, any splintering occurs almost entirely on the side facing up (or the side in contact with the shoe). This is especially true when cutting plywood or particle wood. With this method you can use a coarser blade to achieve fine cuts, but it is almost impossible to do this when cutting an angle or bevel.
When using the angled cut feature of your jigsaw, cut from the finish side and use a finer blade.
Aged or dry wood tends to chip more easily, and cannot hold sharp features along the grain. To make pointy cuts (like a joining pair of curves that make a point facing away from the board) use new soft lumber, or be prepared to make a repair with caulk or wood putty.
With hard lumber the finest blades brea