How to Sew Bound Buttonholes

A bound buttonhole creates a finished look for any type of jacket. It's especially good for a heavier weight fabric or one that may ravel. Bound buttonholes are easy to make, but they do take a bit of practice. The key is to make sure you mark your pieces correctly.

Things You'll Need

  • Jacket fabric
  • Jacket pattern
  • Fabric-marking tool such as tailor's chalk
  • Interfacing
  • Needle
  • Thread
  • 3-by-3 inch squares of fabric, one for each buttonhole
  • Sewing machine
  • Pins
  • Scissors
  • Ironing board
  • Iron
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Instructions

    • 1

      Use the pattern to mark on the back of the jacket where the buttonholes should go. Also, run a line of basting thread to mark the center line of the jacket.

    • 2

      Apply interfacing to the back of the 3-inch square of fabric. If the interfacing is already in the jacket at this point, skip this step.

    • 3

      Pin the square of fabric on the marked spot for the buttonhole. The right sides of the fabric should be together.

    • 4

      Set the sewing machine to a long, baste stitch. Stitching through the square and the jacket, stitch where the buttonhole should go. Also, stitch 1/4 inch on either side. Be sure this mark is the exact length of the buttonhole.

    • 5

      Reset the sewing machine to a regular stitch. Sew on the two outside basting lines. Don't backstitch. Instead pull the threads to the inside and tie them off.

    • 6

      Cut along the centerline with a sharp pair of scissors. Pull the square to the inside. You may have to work to get the fabric to lay flat especially if the fabric is heavy. Once you set it in place, press it with a steam iron.

    • 7

      Repeat this process on the facing piece of the jacket. Hand sew the buttonhole opening from the jacket front and facing together. This completes one bound buttonhole. Repeat this process for each buttonhole.

Tips & Warnings

  • Use a product such as Fray Check to stop any ravels that may appear in the buttonholes.

  • Make a sample buttonhole in extra fabric before making one in your jacket.

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