How to Pick Out A Suit

Every man should own at least one suit. Even the most casual of dressers will have to attend the occasional wedding, evening out, or (God forbid) funeral, so he'll need a good suit. Follow these steps to pick out a suit that looks great, fits great and can be a staple in your closet for a long time.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Dress shoes, preferably the ones you'll be wearing with the suit.
• Dress shirt, and make sure the neck and sleeves are the correct size.

1. Pick the color. If it's your first or only suit, go with navy blue. If you've already got navy, try black, charcoal, light grey, or tan. If you've already got all these colors, you don't really need help buying a suit.

2. Pick the cut. Avoid double-breast unless you're relatively full through the middle or you already have five or six single-breast suits.

3. Pick buttons. For a smaller man (5'6" or shorter), stick with two-button styles. Any taller and you'll want to go with a three-button style. Any more than three buttons and you're getting into NBA/NFL "Draft Day suit" territory, which I suggest you avoid.
   
   For a double-breast jacket, go with the two-to-button style (with two external buttons holding it closed, popularized in the 40's) as opposed to the one-to-button style (with one external button, popular in the 80's).f

4. Pick the vents. The jacket can have a single-vented, double-vented, or no-vent rear. For men with a generous posterior, avoid the double-vent at all costs because when you put your hands in your pockets, there's a flap of material over your rear that looks like a reversed union suit. Most prefer the clean lines of the no-vent style, but this is a question of personal preference.

5. Pick the pants. You'll need to decide on pleats (one, two, or flat-front) and cuffs (yes or no). Many people find that flat-front, cuffless pants are too casual for a suit. Go with one or two pleats (depending on your girth) and a 3/4-inch cuff.

6. Pick the break. This is the most important detail. You've picked the color, cut, jacket, and pants. Now the tailor is going to want to know how you want the hem in your pants to "break". Less (or "A break") means your pants will sit higher on your shoes, more ("B break" and "C break") and they'll rest lower. Try the "C+ break (or "to the floor break") if you don't want your pant legs kick up when you walk and show the world my socks.

7. Take it to your tailor. If you don't have one, use the store's in-house tailor or whoever they recommend.

Tips & Warnings

• When it comes to tailoring, give yourself an extra day or two between the time you pick the suit up and the time you have to wear it, in case your tailor has to make last-minute adjustments.
• Protect suits by hanging them in suit bags with a small cedar block in the pocket.
• Pick a worsted wool for year-round wear, or cotton or linen for warmer months.
• Never lounge around in your suit after you get home. Take it off and hang it up.