How to Install a Bow Style Headliner

Need help with a Bow Style Headliner? Here's how you can rescue your inner roof and reach Nirvana!

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Things You’ll Need:

• Good ready made headliner for your project
• Replacement Windlace
• Windshield Gaskets
• Nylon Cord
• Blunt Stuffing Tool
• Labels, marker, chalk
• Scissors
• Scratch Awl
• Steel Wool
• Rust Stop Primer
• Spray Silicone
• Trim Cement
• Screw driver
• Replacement Insulation
• Steamer & extension cord

1. '55 Olds with moldings If you are doing an early Ford, you will need gaskets for windshield and backlight, since both have to be removed. The gaskets hold the headliner in place around the window. Disconnect the battery or pull the accessory fuse. Remove the kick panels, quarter panels and package tray. If there are trim moldings around the windows, (glass removal isn't necessary.) remove the trim moldings. Remove sun visors, coat hooks, and dome light. Remove old windlace. Pry the headlining out of the toothed strips over the door and window, by loosening the screws attaching them. If there is substantial rust, remove and recondition with Rust stop primer. Label them, since it's easier to put them back if you do. Unlock the rear bow and flex it out of its holes, marking them with chalk. Leave the bow in the old headliner. Repeat until the whole thing is down, then take it to a work surface. Pull or cut out the bows and label each with tape: They have to be kept in order. If you mix them up, the new liner will not fit or look right. Mark which is front. If they're rusty, clean the bows to bright with steel wool, but don't paint them. Clean the roof of old insulation and replace it with new, gluing it up with trim cement. Don't use thicker insulation than what was there, since it will interfere with locking the bows. Partially install the mounting screws for the dome light, so that you can locate where to install it by feeling through the new liner for the screw heads.
2. Clean the work surface and lay out the new liner. Fold it exactly in half lengthwise and cut a small notch to mark center, about 1/4 inch deep on the lead edge of the first section. Mark the center of the rear section with two small notches. Lay it out listing side up on your work table. Spray each bow with silicone and slip it into its proper listing channel in the headliner, slitting the end of the listing channel with scissors an inch or so if needed. Center them as accurately as possible, carry the new headliner to the car and orient it, setting the rear bow into the holes marked with chalk. Sitting in the back seat, reach both hands up to the center of the rear bow listing and tug it outward over the bow, smoothing excess fabric outward, keeping the bow centered in the headliner. Lock the bow into position and move to the next bow. If wires were used to lock it, fasten them over the listing fabric. Repeat this smoothing and locking process until all the bows are installed and locked. It'll look a little loose, at this point.
3. Starting at the center of the first section, pull the fabric forward and glue the headliner in place, using your notch to align the center. There will be excess, just let it dangle. Don't trim in case you need to reposition it. Stretch the fabric enough to pull out some of the wrinkles and smooth it outward to the sides. Glue the fabric sparingly, so that a big glue band doesn't show past any trim moldings. You can check by holding one in place briefly. Keep gluing until you get to the windshield pillar posts, and pull the fabric tight by tugging on the end of the listing. Don't pull on the area between the seams, just pull the listing. Slit the ends of the listing channels as needed to keep the fabric from bunching up as you tighten the sides, but don't cut into the stitching. Glue the corners and mark the location for the visors with chalk. Dab cement on the sides and let it tack while you glue the area around the rear window. Don't stretch the fabric to extremes, just evenly snug. Tuck the sides into the toothed strips by pulling on the listings and stuffing the fabric into the teeth with a blunt stuffing tool. Continue until all the edges are glued and tucked, and most of the excess fabric is stretched tight.
4. "After" Install new gaskets on the windshield and backlight. Run a length of Nylon cord in the crevice of the gasket, leaving about six inches of excess length dangling at the bottom center, where the ends meet. Trim your headlining fabric just past the edge of the opening, glue it and wrap it to the outside by cutting small easement slits with scissors. Mount the glass and gasket assembly on the body, pulling the cord to work the gasket lip over the edge while a helper pushes on the glass from outside. If you didn't remove the glass, install the windlace starting at the kick panels, trim the excess and reinstall the moldings. Clean off any excess glue on the glass. Locate the screws for the dome light, and cut a small X to pull the electrical lead through. Connect the dome light and mount it using a scratch awl to make a small hole for each screw. Locate the holes for the coat hooks and replace them. Replace the package tray, visors and kick panels if you removed them. Heat the steamer and shrink the headliner until there are no more wrinkles, moving the steamer over a section at a time. Felt headlining draws dramatically, and your new headliner should feel taught, once it cools.

Tips & Warnings

• Close the doors and windows to make the steamer more effective.
• Don't forget to replace the dome light fuse after you've finished.
• Be careful with live steam to avoid burns!