How to Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod Roadster

Building Hot Rods will help you develop a great skillset, including wiring, body & paint, upholstery, engine and driveline installation and much more! Used parts can save a bundle; What's more fun than spending a sunny Saturday at the You-Pull Junkyard?

Instructions

Difficulty: Challenging

Things You’ll Need:

• Lots of money
• heated/cooled workshop
• S-10 Chassis
• EZ or other brand wiring
• 350 engine & THM 700 R4
• Compressor & air tools
• Socket set, extensions, wrenches, ratchets, etc.
• Tubing bender & fuel line
• FiberGlass Roadster Body
• Rotisserie or Body Cradle
• Jackstands, hydraulic jack, transmission jack
• Chain Hoist & gantry or Engine hoist on wheels
• Windshield, side glass, backlight
• Seats/Interior Kit
• Heater Plenum & AC Kit
• Chrome inside & outside door handles
• Weatherstrip & Channel felts, windlace, regulators

1. One piece headliner Plan your Rod: The budget for a streetrod built from scratch is roughly $20,000 if you do all the work including paint. If you have the time, tools, talent and budget, (and don't forget you need is a place to work,) you will be able to find everything you need to complete the project if you stick with mainstream components. Use scratch paper to firm up what you envision, right down to the last detail, so that you can make an accurate list of what you need to get started. Never buy everything at once, if storage space is limited. You're better off starting with the skeleton and fleshing it out as you assemble for several reasons; If your components sit in a box in the garage for a year, anything defective is not returnable, and being buried alive in an avalanche of boxes makes for a frustrating work area. It's amazing how much room it all takes up.
2. Ready for Seats Locate, Purchase Major Stuff: I like to approach it as a layered project, consisting of 1. Planning stage, 2. Purchasing Major Components stage, 3. Nuts & Bolts stage, 4. Power & Driveline stage, 5. Rolling Chassis stage, 6. Paint Stage, 7. Trim & Accessories stage.
   A late model S-10 pickup chassis and a 36 Ford Fiberglass Body will be used for an example, but choices are limitless in streetrod building. Use a Chevy 350 cid engine and a THM 700R4 transmission for your power since parts are readily available for these and they're street rodder's favorites. Once these major components are acquired, you're underway.
3. Nuts & Bolts Stage: Start at the ground & work up: Several year models of S-10 pickup will work, but you want one already set up with a power steering box, front disc brakes and a tilt column. You will need tires & wheels to roll it, or a "push able chassis". Leave the emergency brake: you can modify it to fit later, so that you can stop the chassis while the transmission and master cylinder are removed. Junk rims and dry rotted tires are fine while you work. You may have to drill the frame using cutting oil and carbide tipped bits to get body bolts to line up with the chassis. Once you have your body bushings in place, bolt the body to the chassis. Protect the gel coat with fender covers like you would finish paint while working.
4. Power Plant & Driveline: You may need special mounts to stuff your 350 engine in; Advance Adapters or another manufacturer will have them. It is easier to build the drive train after the body is bolted onto the chassis so that you can measure and fit. The drive shaft is often the biggest holdup, since the original drive shaft from the S-10 may not mate up to your 700 R4: Big Moe or another Drive Shaft builder can spec cut, weld and balance the yoke from your 700 R4 to the Spicer joint that mates to your S-10 rear end if you measure carefully. Set up your radiator core support and bolt on body panels.
5. 1936 Ford with Custom Interior Rolling Chassis stage: Choose the site for your battery box and mount it. If you are using solenoid door poppers, put a fail safe in some hidden area so that if the battery quits, you can attach cables and get the doors open. Wire the instrument panel, dome light and ignition switch using an EZ Harness that has enough circuits to power everything you plan to use as an accessory, including those woofers sitting in the corner. Most after market wiring harnesses are labeled the whole length, come pre-wired with a fuse terminal, and have enough circuits for most any accessory. Now is the time to work out any issues with fuel delivery, AC and heat, Anti-lock braking, engine cooling and exhaust. Bolt on engine accessories like the alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor, master cylinder, radiator, condenser and fan. Do belts & Hoses next, and transmission cooler lines. Once everything is installed, add oil & fluids and start her up. Bleed the brake master cylinder, calipers and wheel cylinders. She should move under her own power now, no more pushing.
6. Street Rods Under Construction Paint Stage: Refer to your plan and purchase a paint system like Dupont or any good base coat/clear coat. Practice painting a piece of cardboard until you get the technique down of adjusting the fan, and are able to build an opaque coat without drips or runs. Don't forget to put an inline drier on your compressor--water in the air line will ruin your paint job. Follow the directions carefully for mixing activator and hardener and recoating with clear. Add decals or graphics.
7. Trim Stage: Install glass assemblies, channel felts and weatherstrip. If you are installing a bow style headliner, it goes in before the windshield and backlight. Their gaskets actually hold the headliner in. An Interior Kit is an easy way to finish, and you can find different manufacturers in magazines and Hemmings Motor News. They have carpet, door panels, kick panels, headliners, seat covers, package tray liners, and finger-pull armrests. Already upholstered seats are available too. Interior kits save time & money over custom upholstery. This completes your project except for hard parts like handles, knobs, gages, rims & wheels, etc.

Tips & Warnings

• Always paint in a paint booth with an exhaust fan and filter, and wear a respirator to protect your lungs. Read up-there are tons of good books on home made paint booths and equipment, paint products & techniques.
• Get training on the safe use of shop equipment, including using hardened sockets with air tools that are shatter resistant.
• Patience pays off; don't think you can put a street rod together in a weekend. Realistically, it could take several years.
• Get a print subscription to Hemmings Motor News, the Car Collector Bible, with ads and sources for just about anything automotive.
• Use compressed air with caution: it contains tiny metal particles, moisture and minute traces of oil. Never use it to blow shop dust off your face!