How to Modify a Dress Pattern

Alter patterns to provide a custom fit for any body type.

Sewing patterns are valuable guides for even the most experienced seamstresses. Using the pattern can significantly speed the design process required to create a dress. Developing the ability to modify patterns can result in a flattering garment that can be worn and enjoyed for years, according to sewing instructor Allison Page. Beginners to altering patterns should avoid trying to dramatically change the lines of a complex garment. Focus on beginning with slight pattern adjustments to accommodate variations in individual body types.

Things You'll Need

• Measuring tape
• Dress pattern
• Scissors
• Butcher paper
• Pencil

Instructions

1. Obtain accurate and current body measurements with the help of a friend. Before altering a pattern for a very tailored or formal garment, take measurements in any specialty undergarments that will be worn under the ensemble. Record bust, waist, hip and arm circumference in the units of measurement used by the chosen pattern.

2. Compare the body measurements taken to the body dimensions provided in the pattern's sizing guide. Carefully read pattern instructions to determine the seam allowance given by the pattern. Cut our the individual pieces of the pattern and lay the pieces flat in a work station.

3. Lay the individual pieces of the pattern flat on the butcher paper and evaluate needed adjustments. To accommodate larger or smaller arms, extend or subtract from the length of the shoulders on the original pattern. To accommodate variations in bust, hips or waist, ensure an equal amount is added to or subtracted from each panel in the pattern. Adjusting all the pieces equally will maintain the relative proportions of the finished garment.

4. Measure the necessary adjustments and mark in pencil on the butcher paper. Add the allotted seam allowance to the needed width. Trace a customized copy of each pattern piece, using the lines of the original piece as a guide. Cut the pieces of the pattern out. Measure each piece again, ensuring the alterations are sufficient.

Tips & Warnings

• Wash all washable fabric before use, as fabric generally comes with sizing. The fabric can shrink upon first washing, so you want to be sure that's before sewing, not after.

• If not already familiar with your sewing machine, dig out the manual and make friends with it

• If you are going to make a mistake, it is far better to make it on the muslin shell than the good fabric.

• It is generally a good idea to try the muslin shell on the model before taking it apart to make sure it really fits.

• Measure the hem while it is hanging on either the dressform or the model to ensure it falls evenly all the way around.

References

• Threads Magazine; To Judge a Pattern Start with Its Cover; Allison Page; November 2008
• Irish Threads: Pattern Alterations