Things You'll Need:
- Guitar strings (same gauge preferably)
- 3.0 mm hex/Allen wrench, or some type of guitar multi-tool with hex wrenches
- Wire cutters
- Tuning wrench (optional, but preferred)
- Guitar tuner
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Step 1
When I started playing guitar back in 1991, I was using a Fender Squier Stratocaster, a guitar which did not require the use of tools to re-string it. For that guitar, all I had to do was run the strings through the back of the guitar to the front, insert the ends of the strings into the tuning pegs, and tune to pitch. When I bought my first guitar with a double-locking tremolo, I was instantly intimidated with all of the new techniques and tools I needed to use just to string up! A daunting challenge for the inexperienced, but with my help, you'll not only look like and expert, you'll FEEL like an expert after this! I now own five guitars, all of which have different bridges and re-stringing techniques, but we are going to concentrate on the double-locking tremolos for the purposes of this article. Whether your tremolo is a Floyd Rose or licensed version thereof, or some other version, floating or direct-mounted, the technique is pretty much the same, so let's get started!
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Step 2
The first step is to unlock the string clamps at the nut, the part the strings pass through at the top of the headstock. The purpose of the nut is two-fold: To space the strings properly, and to give the note being played its sustain (along with its anchor point at the bridge, or tremolo unit. Using the 3.0 mm hex/Allen wrench, turn each of the lock nuts counter-clockwise until they loosen enough to unscrew by hand. IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT THE LOCK NUTS AND CLAMPS ARE RE-INSTALLED IN THE ORDER AND POSITION THAT THEY CAME OFF! The reason for this is that since the strings are of different thicknesses, the clamps and lock nuts are "set" to hold down their respective pair of strings, which makes re-tuning and setting up that much easier, as they tend to slip less during each of the above procedures. So, please keep in mind the order AND position that the lock nuts and clamps came off. I find that starting from the Low-E and A string and working down to the B and high-e string is the easiest to remember. Set these aside.
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Step 3
The next step is to take a tuning wrench and loosen the Low-E string at the tuning peg mounted into the headstock. It is not necessary to completely unwind the string all the way at this point, so just unwind it enough to put slack into the string. Now, take the 3.0 mm hex/Allen wrench and loosen the string stopper screw in the tremolo. The end of the string should pop out, and can now be completely removed from the guitar. Remove the Low-E string from the pack of strings, and using the wire cutters, cut off the ball end of the string ABOVE the twisted portion. The reason for this is because if the twisted portion is left on, the string-stopper screw cannot compress and clamp the string completely, thereby increasing a possibility that the string will work itself loose and snap up into your face, or at the very best, prevent you from tuning up correctly.
People have often asked me why I change one string at a time. On floating double-locking trems (where the whammy bar can be pushed down and pulled up), there is a fine balance between the nut, trem unit, trem spring claw, and the strings which are creating a tremendous amount of tension between the three. Changing one string at a time (WITH THE SAME GAUGE STRINGS) allows the string tension and balance to remain unchanged, thus making it easier to tune and to keep it that way. You'll know if your balance has changed by the position of the trem unit: An INCREASE in string gauge will make the trem unit angle upwards, while a DECREASE in string gauge will make the trem unit sink into its cavity. So, please keep using the same gauge, and same brand preferably, of strings. If you are planning on going to a heavier or lighter gauge, a complete setup will be required to balance out the trem unit. -
Step 4
Once your new Low-E string is clamped down and wound up on the peg, repeat the procedure on the other five strings, again going one at a time. Do not tune any string to pitch yet or cut off the excess string at the peg end. This will unbalance the trem unit by placing too much tension on one side of the tremolo. Once all of the strings are mounted (again, NOT tuned to pitch), you should even out the fine tuners that are screwed into the top of the trem unit (the little wheels with the knurled rims) and set them about midway. This is so that you are able to get that last bit of tuning done without having to unclamp the strings and throw everything off-balance. Setting them midway allows for a decent range of fine tuning, and this is what I personally do. The only exception to this is when there is a d-Tuna mounted onto the Low-E string. The d-Tuna is an Edward Van Halen-invented device that allows a guitarist to tune to a Drop-D tuning without having to unclamp and retune all of the strings. The device works by essentially bypassing the tension spring under the Low-E fine tuner, dropping the string's pitch without having to move the tuning peg. It's an amazingly simple device, one that I recommend getting if you want to use Drop-D tuning without the hassle. I will cover the installation and tuning of the EVH d-Tuna in another article later on.
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Step 5
Once all of the strings are clamped to the trem unit, wound up on to the tuning pegs, and the fine tuners set to halfway, it's time to tune up! Before you start to turn the pegs, remember to pull on the strings the entire length of the fretboard; this is to take some of the tension out by stretching them just a bit. For ease, I am setting the tuning to standard pitch, aka A=440 concert pitch. I will not be delving into a Buzz Feiten Tuning System here, and please don't ask! I only know the peripherals of the system, so I'm going to keep it simple.
Tuning a double-locking trem unit is not like tuning a standard electric guitar. For these types of guitars, it seems as if you have to forget everything you know about tuning, aside from the standard EADGBe notation. In order to keep the trem unit in balance, tune the middle strings, the D and G strings, first (it does not matter which one is first). Once those are tuned, then you move outward to the A and B strings, then finally to the E-strings. Do not worry if the strings that you have tuned go sharp, ie., higher in pitch; this is normal, and the last strings that you tuned will go flat when you re-tune the middle strings. As I mentioned, this is a dynamic balance, and this is where the fine-tuners come into play. Adjust them up or down to the correct pitch, and once the needle's at 90 degrees, or the light turns green, you're on the money! -
Step 6
Now, it's time to re-attach those pesky clamps and lock nuts. Re-installing them IN ORDER AND POSITION (see why this was important?), snug down the lock nuts tight, but not too tight! Over-tightening will cause them to snap off in the threaded hole, and that will just ruin your day (I know it did mine. I ended up having to buy a $70.00 screw extractor kit to pull the broken portion out, and I had to find the correct hex socket screw, cut it down and re-thread the end). Tight is as tight does, so don't go overboard. At this point, the strings might have gone sharp because of the clamp pressure on the strings. No problem: use the fine tuners to drop the pitch to the correct note, and you're in business (again, this does not work with the d-Tuna device)!
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Step 7
The final step is to re-check your tuning, check the position of the bridge (it should be level and parallel to the body of the guitar. If it is not, then you will have to unclamp the lock nuts and increase or decrease tension in the strings, then re-tune accordingly), and to check if it will stay in tune. Push down and pull up on the whammy bar a few times, then re-check your tuning. If anything, expect the strings to go slightly flat as the strings are being stretched out. Re-tune if necessary, cut off the extra strings on the headstock, and you're ready to play! I apologize for not having any accompanying photos, but I will send them to those who have an absolute need for them.
