How to Enjoy Ljubljana, Slovenia

Nestled in the center on Slovenia, at the foot of the Julian Alps, sits one of the smallest capital cities in Europe. Though there are less than 300,000 residents, this tiny city radiates energy, culture and above all, something new. From Art Nouveau architecture to small cafes dotting the cobblestone streets, and even the remnants of the independence movement, Ljubljana gives the feel of a big city without the crowds. Be sure to visit soon, though. Its profile among other Eastern cities like Prague, Budapest and Krakow is quickly rising.

Instructions

Difficulty: Easy

1. The best point-of-reference in Ljubljana is Ljubljana Castle. Perched on Castle Hill high over the city for almost 1,000 years, the paths atop the walls give the best free view of the city. For a small fee, you can climb the tower, the tallest point in Ljubljana. A ‘virtual museum’ of Ljubljana’s different phases, from the Romans to current day, is also included in the fee and well worth it.
2. Walk down Castle Hill and straight into the Old Town (a tourist tram is also available.) This gorgeous area is the heart of Ljubljana. Stores, cafes, bars and restaurants line Mestni trg, which winds its way into Stari trg and Gorni trg.
3. People watch at the Triple Bridge, designed by native-born Joze Plecnik, which is situated at the north end of Mestni trg. During the autumn, venders flank this area, standing over large barrels roasting chestnuts.
4. Stop for an afternoon drink at Pr’Skelet (Kljucavnicarska 5, just west of Mestni trg) a macabre subterranean watering hole, where any of the 100-some cocktails are 2-for-1, everyday, all-day. Or for something closer to home, the always friendly Cutty Sark (Knafljev prehod, 5 minutes west of Triple Bridge.) has a wide range of domestic and imported beers, as well as a variety of scotches.
5. Soak up some of the alcohol with traditional Slovenian food. Walk north along the river to the ‘Dragon Bridge,’ aptly named because of the 4 dragons at the corners of the bridge (local legend says that they guarded the city for the Argonauts, after they had stolen the golden fleece.) As you walk to the Dragon Bridge, you will cut through a large market, selling fresh produce, vegetables, bread and Slovenian souvenirs and jewelry. At the top of the market are several trucks/stands where you can find traditional fare such as grilled sardines with sea salt, grilled octopus and pan-fried calamari, as well as not-so-traditional hamburgers. Cover the grilled sardines with olive oil and soak up the extra with a piece of fresh bread.
6. Beat the after-food sluggishness with an espresso or cappuccino at Petit Café (Trg francoske revolucije 4, west of the river) and people watch with the rest of the bohemians.
7. Swing by the Roman Wall, built around 15 A.D. (Mirje ul, just south of Petit Café) on your way to Park Tivoli for a little break. Lay on the grass, watch local kids play soccer, or just stare at the clouds; Park Tivoli is the perfect place to recharge for the night.
8. Eat a traditional Slovenian dinner at Sokol (Ciril-Metodov trg 18,) located in the middle of Old Town. At points it can be a bit ‘Mickey Mouse,’ with the costumes and oompah-ish music and décor, but delicious food for cheap prices more than compensates. Try the grilled sea bass, but be careful not to order too much; the portions are very…financially pleasing.
9. Waddle your way to BiKoFe (Gospkoa 7) for cool jazz, Minimal (Mestni trg 4) for ostentatious cocktails in a bar decorated completely white, or the club haven Metelkova (Masarykova cesta,) where you have a choice of 6 different clubs.
10. Recover from the night at the Grand Union Hotel (Miklosiceva cesta) a gorgeously designed in the Art Nouveau tradition. Or, for the more adventurous, book a space in Celica Hostel (Metelkova 8) a former prison revamped into one of the hippest hostels east of SoHo.

Tips & Warnings

• Though Ljubljana might be small, you should allot three or four days to see the whole city. Make sure to explore the tiny side streets and courtyards to find the best places.
• Don’t be afraid to talk to the locals. The language barrier is tough to get past, and if they speak English it might be broken, but those who live in Ljubljana tend to stay in Ljubljana for life and are a wealth of information. One precaution: do not bring up the civil war. Even though Yugoslavia split over 20 years ago, it is still a sore subject with some residents.
• For a quick day trip, catch the 75-minute bus ride to Bled and visit the castle and surrounding lakes.
• Take the normal safety precautions as with any city. Watch for pickpockets. Women walking alone should stay in well-lit, populated areas. Trust your instincts; if something feels wrong, it probably is.