How to Choose a Red Diamond

Red diamonds, mined in Australia, are some of the rarest stones on earth. There are said to be fewer than two dozen truly red cut diamonds in the entire world. Most "red" diamonds on the general market today are a shade of pink. Crimson, vermillion or scarlet red diamonds, whether their color is natural or enhanced, command the highest prices in the diamond world.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Assess Red Diamonds for Color

1. View available red diamonds and gauge them in relation to a standard deep, true red. Note whether they are lighter or darker than "deep" and whether they contain undertones, such as purple or orange.
2. Compare red diamonds with red sapphires, or rubies, for an idea of how rich a true red can be. Diamonds should appear richer than rubies of the same hue, due to the reflection of certain light wavelengths.
3. Choose the color of red diamond, either true red, purplish red or orange red, that most appeals to you. For stones that will be set in jewelry, choose those that look well against the wearer's skin in various light settings.

Evaluate Red Diamonds for Cut and Clarity

4. Take note of any visible occlusions and ask the jeweler whether they pose a threat to the physical integrity of the stone.
5. Hold the diamond in your hand to see whether it is "lively" enough. A red diamond that doesn't show more sparkle than a ruby is either poorly cut or full of flaws that dampen its reflective and refractive abilities.
6. Examine the stone under a jeweler's loupe. Look for any newly visible occlusions, and note the evenness of color and clarity across the stone's surface.
7. Choose the best-quality red diamond whose supporting documentation satisfies authenticity criteria, such as the name of the originating mine and a laboratory analysis.

Tips & Warnings

• When buying such a rare and expensive diamond, have it appraised by a third party immediately.
• Occlusions are natural tiny fractures in a gemstone that generate visual flaws. Occlusions that would be undesirable in other fancy, or colored, diamonds are acceptable in red diamonds due to the extreme rarity of these stones.
• Carat weight may not be a factor in how you choose, because with a very limited selection, you will want to focus on quality and visual appeal.
• Some red stones may be enhanced by irradiation. Be sure that your documentation contains test results for residual radiation.
• Avoid fakes by visiting a reputable dealer and getting a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certification of the stone.