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Step 1
The ground loop is the heart of the system. It consists of a series of pipes carrying environmentally safe refrigerant that run through the earth at a typical depth of six feet. The pipes can also be installed on the bottom of a pond or lake with a comparable constant water depth. The refrigerant flowing through the pipes either picks up heat retained by the earth or dissipates heat depending on the season.
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Step 2
Piping is usually either high-density polyethylene with fused joints or copper. The length of the loop depends on the heating, air conditioning and hot water demands of the home and the local climate. A good rule of thumb is to estimate that a loop will take 400 to 600 feet of length per ton of heating and cooling capacity. The loop is installed vertically where space is at a premium.
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Step 3
The refrigerant is pumped into the home where it is handled by electrically driven heat exchangers and compressors analogous to what happens in a refrigerator. In the heating cycle, the refrigerant is compressed turning it into high temperature, high-pressure liquid which will dissipate heat into the surrounding air. Before the refrigerant is sent back to the ground loop, it’s allowed to expand where it becomes a low temperature, low pressure gas which absorbs heat. In the summer, the process reverses drawing heat from your home and carrying it back into the ground.
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Step 4
Variable speed fans push the hot or cold air through ducts that reach all parts of the home. In some systems you’ll find a single box that contains both the heat exchanger and fan, referred to as the air handler
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Step 5
A desuperheater can be added to provide hot water. In the summer, heat that would be simply dissipated in the ground can be diverted to heat your home’s hot water tank, dropping your cost for heating water to practically zero. In winter the desuperheater would divert heat used in the heating cycle. When the outside temperature is moderate and your HVAC system is off, you’d rely on conventional hot water heating.











