How to Clean a Bike Chain

You've been ripping through the hills or touring the country and city roads - your bike chain is now filthy. Time to give it a thorough cleaning.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Basins
• Rags
• Rags
• Small Pan
• Small Pan
• Bike Chaing Cleaning Brushes
• Solvents

1. Remove the chain (See "How to Replace a Bike Chain" in Related eHows).

2. Take the chain to a well-ventilated or outdoor area.

3. 

   Pour an inch or so of solvent, such as Gunk degreaser or Simple Green, in a small pan or basin.

4. 

   Soak the chain in the solvent.

5. After a minute or two, take the chain out of the solvent and scrub with a course brush.

6. Put the chain back in the solvent, or if the solvent is too dirty, discard it in a safe manner and add new solvent.

7. 

   After another minute, remove the chain, wipe with a rag and dry.

8. Repeat as many times as necessary.

9. Be sure to remove all the solvent before you put the chain back on your bike.

Tips & Warnings

• You should replace your chain every 2000 miles or so. If you wait longer than that, you can put a lot of wear and tear on your chainrings, cassette or freewheel, and your derailleurs.
• In order to avoid extensive chain cleaning sessions, see "How to Maintain a Clean and Efficient Bike Drivetrain" under Related eHows.

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[phillee]

on 2/24/2009 If you remove your chain to clean it, drop it into a used soft-drink bottle with some diesel, put the cap on tight, and shake well, stopping to examine it at regular intervals (a clear bottle makes this easier).When it is clean, fish it out with a piece of wire and dispose of the now dirty diesel safely.Dry the chain, lubricate it, and refit.

[font9a]

on 3/30/2008 Invest in a ParkTool(USA) CC-3 Chain Length tester tool. It will test a chain's "stretch" (i.e., wear) by values or 0.75 and 1.0. ($25)

Great link:
http://www.gastoncountycyclists.com/FunStuff/Chain_Checker.html



When you reach 0.75 replace your chain: you can do this confidently without having to invest in a whole drivetrain replacement. Remember: you are riding a system of parts. The chain wears the front chainrings, the derailleur (some) and the rear cassette. Replacing all those parts costs a lot of money.

When your chain is reading 1.0 on the Park tool, you've got a special opportunity to test your luck: a new chain may function just fine, or it may make your whole drivetrain ready for the scrapbin.

I always replace my chain 'just before' it get's notched into the 0.75 measurement. Saves a lot on Big rings and cassettes in the long run.

Cleaning my chain over 35

on 2/14/2006 My tip is to use diesel to dissolve the oil, grease, dirt. Just use plenty of diesel, a towel or a brush, and you're ready to go. Just remember to spray on some new lubricant before you hit the road. Diesel is cheap and works like a charm.

on 2/14/2006 If you have problems with grit or sand in your chain, use the following tips.
After cleaning the chain, lubricate it with a light grease; like white lithium or WD-40. Wipe off excess with a clean rag. Run a paraffin candle on both the top and bottom of the chain. Also on both from and rear sprockets. This creates a barrier so dirt and sand cannot penetrate into the links. Your next cleaning will be a lot easier.

on 2/14/2006 Rather than the chore of removing a chain properly and purchasing a chain removal tool, there are several chain cleaning devices that clean a chain while still linked. Park Tools has a great device that contains 2 reservoirs of cleaner that you can pedal your chain through while your back wheel is off the ground. I've used this method for the past several years and it works just as efficiently as removing your chain and doesn't require the finesse of chain removal and replacement.