How to Rappel Using a Backup System

For climbers, canyoneers, and aggressive hikers, rappelling is part of the game. While a dangerous endeavor, there are ways to make it much safer. One of them is using a backup to your regular rappelling system. This is an easy-to-follow guide with illustrations and pictures that will show you how to rappel using a backup system called the Guide's Rappel.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You’ll Need:

• climbing harness
• belay/rappel device
• two locking caribiners
• 24" length of 4 or 5 mil accessory cord
• one 30cm nylon runner (not spectra or dyneema) 9/16" in width
• helmet
• climbing rope

1. Organize your gear, make sure your climbing harness is double-backed at all buckle points, and put on your helmet. Verify the integrity of your belay loop on your harness and that your harness is in good repair.
2. Belay/Rappel device and locking munter biner girth hitched to harness properly Attach the 30cm length of 9/16" webbing to one locking caribiner and girth hitch the other end to your climbing harness through both points as shown. This extends your belay/rappel device away from your harness as required for a Guide's Rappel backup system. Be sure to lock your caribiner.
3. How to tie a double fisherman's knot With your 24" length of 4 to 5 mil accessory cord, join the two ends of the cord together using a double fisherman's knot. See photo for step-by-step.
4. How to tie a klemheist knot Using your new loop of accessory cord, tie a klemheist knot on your climbing rope. See photo. It is also possible to use a prussik or autoblok knot for this step, but for this How-To, we are using a klemheist knot.
5. Secure the end of your klemheist knot to the second locking caribiner on your harness as shown in the photo. Be sure to lock your caribiner.
6. A climbing rope properly threaded through a belay/rappel device properly Thread your climbing rope through your belay/rappel device as shown.
7. Secure your threaded belay/rappel device through the locking caribiner attached to the webbing you girth hitched to your harness in step #2. Be sure to lock your locking caribiner.
8. Double-check all of your harness buckles again, make sure all of your locking caribiners are locked. The photo shows what your system should look like at this point.
9. You are ready to begin rappelling. You must move the backup knot with your hand to continue rappelling and prevent the knot from locking against your belay-rappel device. This will slow your descent, but make it a safe one as well.

Tips & Warnings

• For more information on knots and backup rappelling systems, you may want to purchase a copy of "Self Rescue" by David Fasulo.
• To protect your hands during a rappel from heat and friction burns, you may want to wear gloves.
• Climbing and rappelling are dangerous activities and should only be attempted by those who have received the proper instruction in technique from a qualified instructor.
• Never tie a prussik knot with webbing, as it will not lock properly.
• When rappelling, the belay/rappel device becomes hot from rope friction. Use caution when unloading your device at the end of a rappel.