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How to go Ice Climbing in Ouray, Colorado

Member
By Erika Napoletano
User-Submitted Article
(5 Ratings)
Climbing the Schoolroom Pillar at Ouray Ice Park
Climbing the Schoolroom Pillar at Ouray Ice Park

So you've heard about ice climbing and don't know where to go? Join the sport's enthusiasts in Ouray, Colorado for some of the finest natural and man-made ice climbing routes in the country!

From Quick Guide: Ice Climbing
Difficulty: Moderate
Instructions

Things You'll Need:

  • Technical ice axes (2)
  • Climbing ropes, 2 (60m or 70m)
  • Anchoring gear (webbing, cordolette, and locking caribiners) to set-up your top rope
  • Crampons
  • Climbing Harness
  • Belay/Rappel device
  • Helmet
  • Goggles or helmet visor
  • Warm clothing, preferably layered
  • Guidebook
  1. Step 1

    Get a guidebook. Your experience ice climbing will be much more enjoyable if you know where you're going! One of the most concise guidebooks available is Colorado Ice by Jack Roberts.

  2. Step 2

    Determine the area you would like to ice climb in and drive to the area. There are 2 climbing options in Ouray: natural routes and the Ouray Ice Park. Be sure to observe the appropriate parking areas as determined by the guidebook you're using.

  3. Step 3

    Inventory your gear prior to leaving your car and make sure that your car keys are secured to your person or your backpack.

  4. Step 4

    Hike-in to your chosen climbing area. If you are climbing in the Ice Park, be sure to heed warning signs and crampon access only points. It's for your safety!

  5. Step 5

    Identify your route via your guidebook.

  6. Step 6

    If you have chosen to climb a natural ice route, inventory your gear once again at the base of the route. Make sure you have enough ice screws to place, that your crampons are on your boots securely, and that the pick of your ice axes is tight. Always check your rope's integrity as well for possible cuts or fraying.

  7. Step 7

    If you are in the Ice Park and have identified your route, set-up your top-rope anchor using necessary gear. Your guidebook will tell you what types of top anchors are available for the route you've selected. Most routes in the Ice Park recommend the use of a 70M rope. Once your top rope is set, your may either rappel down to the base of the climb or walk down.

  8. Step 8

    Climb on and be safe!

Tips & Warnings
  • Memberships to the Ouray Ice Park can be purchased for purchase at Ouray Mountain Sports or online through the Ice Park website.
  • Ouray Ice Park memberships go to support the ice park and allow it to remain a free climbing facility.
  • Ouray Mountain Sports is an excellent place to get local route beta (information) and area conditions from local climbers.
  • If you would like to climb with a guide, San Juan Mountain Guides offers guiding services for both the Ouray area natural and ice park climbs.
  • Ice climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and should only be attempted by those who have received the proper instruction in technique and have the necessary gear to make it as safe as possible.
  • Avalanche caution should be observed when hiking-in to any of the natural routes in the Ouray area.
  • Respect Leave to Trace principles: take your trash with you, don't disturb the flora and fauna, don't remove objects/artifacts from the trails or climbing areas, and stay on marked trails at all times.

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