How to Surf Big Waves

Big wave surfing is the extreme frontier of a fairly extreme sport. Big waves, or waves over 20 feet in height, add a whole new element to surfing that requires special boards, skills and methods of dropping into the wave. The rewards of surfing big waves are as big as the waves themselves, but with those big waves and thrills comes serious risks. Follow these steps to surf big waves.

Instructions

Difficulty: Challenging

1. Work up to big waves. When you're on the water, even a 10-foot wave seems like a giant. So getting to the point where you can (almost) fearlessly stare down a 20- or 30-foot wave takes lots of time on the water. Work your way up by surfing bigger and bigger breaks until you feel like you're ready to take the monsters of surfing.
2. Get the right board. Surfing big waves requires special skills and, just as importantly, a special board. Big wave boards, known as guns or rhino chasers, are longer, faster and more stable than most other boards. You need to find a board that is made for your height and weight and can also handle the size and speed of the waves you plan to surf.
3. Tow in. Towing in is a special technique for surfing big waves that involves high powered jet skis towing the surfers, on their boards, into the waves just before they start to break. Towing in is not a fun option but a physical necessity to surf big waves, so find someone who knows how to tow to train you how to get towed into a big wave.
4. Learn to wipe out. There are many ways to fall off a big wave. When you're surfing down the face of a wave at 50 MPH you need to know the correct and incorrect way to fall. Knowing how to hit the water, hold your breath and get tossed by the wave are not just important but essential skills in surfing big waves since, as any big wave surfer will tell you, the one thing you can't avoid in big wave surfing is the occasional wipeout.