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Step 1
Research brands to discover which use stainless steel barrels to ferment their wine, rather than new oak. This "Inox" trend (that's the French word for steel) has resulted in brighter and crisper wines because the malolactic fermentation is halted.
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Step 2
Look for wines whose grapes come from the far western Sonoma Coast, the western Russian River Valley, and the Santa Rita Hills. The climate in these areas is ideally suited to produce a more acidic, crisper Chardonnay.
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Step 3
Expect a richness and texture in the wine, but not the buttery flavor that critics had dismissed in previous decades.
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Step 4
Taste a hint of citrus and tropical fruits in the bright fruit flavors, particularly lemon. You may also taste pear and apple in some of the wines.
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Step 5
Compare it to France's white Burgundy, but expect a less mineral taste.
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Step 6
Pair a California Chardonnay with scallops or sole. You'll find the new wines complement food nicely and you can drink more than a glass or two without tiring the palate. This comes from the acidity in the newer wines.
