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Step 1
Cut down dying perennial foliage, if you prefer to have a cleaner look and get this task out of the way before spring. However, some gardeners like to leave dried foliage and seed heads on the plants during the winter for visual interest, and to feed birds.
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Step 2
Remove any parts of your flowering plants that show symptoms of disease. Many pests and diseases can over-winter, so now is the time to get rid of them.
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Step 3
Create soil mounds around the base of roses to keep the roots protected. The best time to do this is after the roses have gone dormant. Roses normally go dormant after cold weather has arrived but before the first freeze.
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Step 4
Dig out spent annuals once they've died after the first frost and add them to your compost pile.
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Step 5
Stop deadheading. When you remove spent blooms from a plant, the plant is signaled to keep its energy up producing sap and new blooms. Once you stop deadheading, the plant slows down and starts reserving energy for the winter.
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Step 6
Apply a layer of thick winter mulch to your perennial beds after the ground freezes. This insulates the roots.
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Step 7
Protect the fragile roots of small perennials, shrubs and young transplants by applying a layer of straw, oak leaves or evergreen boughs around the roots.
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Step 8
Prune flowering shrubs and trees in late winter when the energy reserves are at a maximum. Pruning during this time does no harm to the plant and encourage vigorous growth once spring arrives.
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Step 9
Bring potted flowers indoors. The small amount of soil surrounding the root ball will not be enough protection to keep the plant alive during the winter. Potted plants can be allowed to go dormant in your garage or elsewhere in the home. The exception is large potted roses, which need to be kept outdoors unless you have a greenhouse.
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Step 10
Remove all protective materials at winter's end to allow new growth to occur.
