-
Step 1
Begin at the front of the boat...the bow and the back end is the stern. A direction toward the bow is called forward from where your standing and to the stern is aft. In this and everything specificity to avoid confusion
-
Step 2
Next port and starboard. Port is to your left and starboard to your right when you are facing forward and are still the same sides of the boat when you're facing aft. This to avoid a confusing command like "pull on your right hand rope" which would change were you facing another direction.
-
Step 3
A sailboat has two other directions...windward or weather and lee ward. As you might guess the windward side of the boat is where the wind is coming from and describes the "tack" or direction your boat is pointed.
-
Step 4
The boat is divided 8 discreet segments. Working backwards from the bow, you have the bow, port or starboard fore quarter, port or starboard beam, port or starboard aft quarters, and the stern.
-
Step 5
Port, starboard, windward and lee ward come together to refer to the "tack" you're on. A tack being a description of where the boat is sailing relative to the wind's direction. For example: Sailing to windward on a starboard tack would have you sailing up wind with the wind coming over the starboard side of the boat's bow..
-
Step 6
Which brings us to the points of sail. These describe where the wind is coming from relative to the boat. When the wind is on the bow you are sailing "close hauled". When the wind is aft of the bow, but not yet on the beam or center of the boat you are "close reaching". When the wind is at right angles to the boat you are "beam reaching". When the wind is aft of the boat you are "broad reaching". When the wind is directly behind you are "running".
-
Step 7
It's important to know what kind of boat you're on. Begin with a sloop with a single mast carrying two sails, a jib in front on the forestay and a mainsail aft on the mast. Add another stay called a baby stay between the mast and the forestay on which a third sail is set and you are on a cutter. Add a second mast forward of the "helm" the steering position, on which a third or fourth sail called the "mizzen" is set and you are on a ketch. Move the second mast aft of the helm and you are on a yawl. Make the after master taller than the fore mast and you are on a schooner. One single mast mounted or "stepped" forward of the boat's center of effort and you are on a "cat boat".
-
Step 8
There are two categories of the boats underwater shape, keel and centerboard both of which extend down from the bottom of the boat. A keel is fixed and generally carries ballast to counter balance the force of the wind trying to blow the boat on its side. A centerboard can be raised and lowered and most often carries little weight or "ballast". Both function like a wing on an airplane to pull the boat to weather. The steering angle when sailing close hauled will produce increased water pressure on the lee ward side of the keel or centerboard forcing the boat to weather. As on an airplane this is called "lift"
-
Step 9
Next is the rudder and the means by which you control it. When you turn the rudder it creates more pressure on on side than the other and the increased pressure on that side will pivot the stern of the boat in the opposite direction. Turn the rudder to port and the boat will turn to starboard and the reverse. The rudder will be controlled by a "tiller" a long arm attached directly to the "stock" that is the shaft on which the rudder is mounted or by a wheel that turns a pulley called the "quadrant" around which cables run to a like pulley on the shaft and like the sprockets on a bicycle, turn one and you turn the other. As there are considerable forces involved you need to enhance the effort of the helms person: with a tiller that is simple leverage ... with a wheel effort is enhanced mechanically by using a larger pulley on the wheel and a smaller one on the shaft, like putting your car in low gear.
There are 3 basic rudder types described by where and how they are attached to the boat. The first is hinged on the after edge of the keel and is often called a "barn door" rudder. Next the rudder is hinged to a "skeg" that is a fin like appendage extending down into the water mounted aft the keel and separate from it. This type of rudder is often called a "fin" rudder. The third type is "transom" hung and is hinged directly to the stern of the boat. -
Step 10
Sails are what make the boat go and they work in 2 different modes. When the wind is passing over the boat from any direction forward of the aft quarters the sails are functioning like an airplane wing. A note on simple physics here...a gas or a liquid loses pressure as its velocity increases. The curved shape of an airplane wing or a sail forces the air flowing over it to go faster over the curved surface and so creating greater pressure on the concave surface. In both instances the force created is called "lift" and so the sail is pulling rather than pushing the boat.
That changes when the wind is aft of the aft quarters where the wind blowing from behind pushes the boat.
Speed down wind can be no greater than the speed of the wind itself, but upwind a modern, well trimmed boat can sail much faster than the speed of the wind itself.
This because the faster you go to windward the greater the pressure differential and the greater the differential the faster you go...
The speed the boat can be achieve is called "hull speed" in a displacement boat, that is a boat that goes through the water rather than planing on it, and what that speed will be for a given boat depends on a number of variables and one absolute, the boat's length at the water line. This because the boat's passage through the water creates a pressure wave, that curl of water coming off the bow. The faster you go the further aft that wave moves, move it far enough aft and you have created a trough in water before the bow that the bow can't rise above to go fsater and so hull speed. The longer the boat, the longer the period between the pressure wave and the trough and so the greater your possible hull speed.
As an aside: This does not apply to boats that plane on the water or in the case of iceboats astonishing speeds can be had under sail. In fact, the landspeed record was once held by Commodore Vanderbilts J. Class ice boat a well over 100 miles an hour. -
Step 11
Now we come to "the rig". There are 2 types of rigging on any boat. The "standing rigging" and the "running rigging" We'll save running rigging for the next step, but here define standing rigging as that part of the boat's rig that is largely fixed in place and who's primary function is to support the sails.
The biggest single component is the mast. From it everything else, literally, depends. On a typical sloop it will held in place by wire or a rod to the bow called the "forestay" supported at the sides by 2 or more "shrouds" and at the stern by the "backstay". These cables, most often of stainless wire braid are attached to the hull of the boat with "turn buckles" that allow tension adjustments on the wire and these turnbuckles connect to fittings on the hull called "chain plates". They will terminate on the mast in fittings called "bails".
Extending aft at right angles to the mast and attached to it by a hinge called the "gooseneck" is the boom. The top of the mast will typically contain several "sheaves" these are pulleys through which the wire or rope that hauls the sails aloft run. The end of the boom will usually have a similar sheave for supplying tension to the "foot" or bottom edge of the mainsail, this device called called the "out haul". -
Step 12
The running rigging is a bit more complicated but it breaks down into 3 basic functions. The first hauls the sails aloft and keeps them there. The second controls how far out or in the sails are from the boat. The third controls the shape of the sails.
The first are called "halyards" named for the sails they support. The jib halyard supports the sail "bent" that is attached, to the forestay. Then the maim halyard that supports the mainsail. Often there will be a third halyard for setting big down wind sails called the spinnaker halyard.
Related to the halyards are the "guys" and "lifts" that support the boom and downwind poles, secondary booms hinged to the front of the mast to hold a foresail out from the boat. The "topping lift" supports the boom's free end. If the boat carries a down wind pole called the "spinnaker pole" there will be a topping lift for it as well.
The spinnaker pole's relative angle to the boat will be controlled by the "fore guy" and "after guy". One pulls it forward, the other back.
Now we come to "sheets" those ropes that control the position of the sails. Again they are named for the sails they control. "Main sheet" that controls the mainsail. Jib sheet that controls the forward most sail called the jib. And the "spinnaker sheet" that controls those large balloon like down wind sails. -
Step 13
The sheets will be attached to aft most corner of the sail called the "clew" and secured by a variety of deck hardware. The jib sheets will be led to the "primary winches". The main sheet to the "main tackle" typically several pulleys called "blocks" that provide a mechanical advantage in controlling the forces created by the wind on the very large mainsail. The main tackle will be connected to the "traveler" a small car that runs on a track across the boat 90 degrees to the centerline of the boat.
The spinnaker sheet will be led to the "secondaries" a separate set of winches smaller than the primaries.
Sheets are led around obstacles on the deck that could "foul" them, that is tangle or snag them by two kinds of pulleys, "turning blocks" that are fixed in place and "snatch blocks" that can be moved for optimum effect. These blocks will be attached to a "snap shackle" that opens and closes. These shackles generally attach the snatch blocks to the "toe rail" that is a perforated rail that is attached to the outside perimeter of the boat. -
Step 14
Then there are those parts of the running rigging that control the shape of the sail. Beginning with the mainsail we have the fore mentioned "outhaul" that controls the tension on the foot of the mainsail. If the wind is fresh this will be used to haul the foot of the sail out to flatten it for better aerodynamic shape. In light air the tension will be eased to create a belly in the sail, better for light air performance.
Then we come to the "boom vang" this a multi-block device led from the middle of the boom to the base of the mast. This too can be used to flatten the sail by hauling the boom down and it is often used to keep the boom from swinging out of control when running down wind. For example: Running down wind with the wind coming over the starboard aft quarter the mainsail would typically be eased forward until it is 90 degrees to the centerline of the boat so as to present the largest sail area possible. But, there is always the danger of a wave or swell kicking the stern around to the point where the wind is coming over the opposite corner. If that happens the wind would then be on the other side of the sail and without the vang to keep it secured to the port side of the boat the boom will swing to the other side of the boat with real violence. This event is called a "jibe all standing" and can take the mast right out of the boat or if you happen to have your head in the path of the boom...
The next control has been mentioned, the "traveler" which controls which side of the boat to which the main sail is "sheeted". Typically a small car with wheels that runs on a track that runs from rail to rail on the stern. When sailing to "weather" upwind, the traveler will be set to the windward side of the boat and the opposite when sailing down wind. This has the effect of changing the center of effort of the rig to increase the leverage the boom presents. For example: Sailing up wind with the boom sheeted to weather moves the center of effort to windward and so pulls the boat to weather more effectively.
The shape of the head sails is controlled by the "jib sheets" and the placement of the "snatch blocks" that lead the sheets to the primary winches. In general going up wind will have the sheets "hard" that is stretched tightly, and the snatch blocks located in their aftermost position and the reverse for down wind sailing. -
Step 15
There are 4 controls for the spinnaker, that is the big balloon like sail set when going down wind. The spinnaker will be set on a boom called the "spinnaker pole" that will be attached to the front of the mast. The pole will be double ended with identical fixed shackles on both ends that lock on to a bail on the mast at one end and through which the spinnaker sheet will be led on the other.
Designed this way so the pole does not need to be rotated to be set on the other side of the boat. Just unhook the mast end, move laterally and hook on the end that held the sheet to the mast and lead the lee sheet through what is now the new outboard end.
The height of the pole is controlled by the "topping lift" a line led to the pole through a sheave on the mast. The higher the pole is set the fuller the sail shape will be. The pole's position fore and aft is controlled by the "fore guy" and the "after guy". The farther forward the pole is set the fuller the sail's shape will be. -
Step 16
Each sail on a boat has a name and a purpose. Taking a sloop for example: It will set a jib on the forestay and the main on the mast. Both shapes are roughly triangular and that is called a "Marconi" rig and what that has to do with the inventor of radio I don't know.
The foreward edge of the sail is called the "luff". The after edge of the sail is called the "roach". The bottom of the sail is called the "foot". The upper most corner where the halyard will be attached is the "head" and it will be reinforced by a "table board" made of some rigid material to resist the metal shackle on the halyard from rubbing through the softer material of the sail. The bottom forward corner is called the "clew" and in the case of head sails will be shackled to a short wire or line called a "pennant" that in turn will be shackled to the "stem head" a metal plate attached to the bow. In the case of the mainsail the clew most often is shackled directly to the gooseneck, the fitting that holds the boom on the mast.
The main sail will usually offer a way to reduce its area in the event of very strong winds. The act of reducing sail area is called "reefing" and is accomplished by lowering the sail to a line of short ropes sewn through the sail in row parallel to the boom called "reef points". When the sail is lowered to the reef points they are then tied around the boom with a square knot called a "reef knot".
Head sails come in a variety of sizes and "cuts" that is how much "belly" is sewn into the sail. Some are very flat for brisk winds sailing upwind and some fuller for lighter wind and down wind sailing.
Beginning with the smallest, the "yankee" which is a storm sail cut flat and from heavy material. Next the "working jib" an all purpose sail that when stretched aft will not quite reach the mast. Next in size come the "genoas" that are typically number 1 thru 3 with the #1 barely overlapping the mast and # 3 with a foot that is 2/3rds the length of the boat.
If the boat owner is affluent he or she might well carry a variety of other head sails, each designed for a specific application. -
Step 17
The head sails and the mainsail work together when sailing up wind by being sheeted so that there is a consistent gap between them called the "slot" through which air is funneled, increasing its speed to what is called "apparent wind". This wind will seem to come from farther forward and have more velocity than the actual wind.
Down wind the sails can be set on opposite sides of the boat, this called going "wing and wing" done so the main does not cast a wind shadow on the headsail reducing its effectiveness. -
Step 18
Next we come to "ground tackle" which is the anchor and the line to which it is attached called the "rode". Usually a length of heavy chain will extend from the anchor to the rode, this to keep the "stock" that is the long arm to which the rode is shackled lying flat on the bottom. This makes the anchor less likely to "drag" as it keeps the "flukes" that is the prongs that penetrate the bottom at right angles to the bottom.
The length of the rode let out is called the "scope" and is determined by the depth of the water, the length of the boat, the kind of bottom, and the force of likely winds and currents. The more of any of them the longer the scope. The arc through which the boat can move, pivoting on the anchor is called the "swing".
The rode will be tied to a post or large cleat on the bow called the "Samson" and be led over the bow through a fitting on the stem head called the "fair lead". A prudent sailor will employ a canvas or leather sleeve through which the rode will pass that protects the rode at the fairlead from chafing. -
Step 19
Then there are names for other parts of the boats that fall into the misc. category. Any fitting you tie a rope to is called a "cleat". The place where you sit and steer is called the "cockpit". There will be drains in the cockpit to let water run back into the sea called "scuppers". If there is a storage area aft of the steering position it is called a "lazarette". All other storage areas are called "lockers" and may be preceded with the name of what the locker stores as in "chain locker" that holds the anchor rode and chain when not being used.
The bathroom is called the "head" and the kitchen the "galley'. The passage from the cockpit to the cabin is called the "companion way". The cabin is called the "saloon". The places where the captain and crew sleep are called "berths" and each of them has a name specific to who sleeps there as well. Beginning at the bow you have the "fore peak" on large boats where the crew will berth. Often the dining table in the saloon can be lowered to fill in the semi-circle of the dinette to make a double "settee berth". Out board of the settees there are often shelves that become "pilot berths" so called as when a pilot is aboard to navigate a harbor or canal, he will berth there as that allows fastest access to the cockpit. If there are berths that extend aft under the cockpit they are called "quarter berths".
The windows that admit light and air into the boat are called "ports" and the doors that allow the passage of people or gear are called "hatches"
The ceiling of the saloon is the "overhead" and the floor, the "sole". The walls are "bulk heads and the spaces beneath the sole are the "bilges".
Should you have a canvas windscreen mounted forward of and protecting the companion way you have a "dodger" and a canvas awning over the cockpit is called the "bimini".
When you tie up to another boat at anchor you are "rafting" and if tied to a dock you are, surprise, "tied up" and in both instances you will protect the sides of your boat with soft rubber or plastic tubes called "fenders".
The ropes you will use to secure the boat to another or a dock are "dock lines" and one will be attached to both bow and stern cleats. Should you be on a dock you will run another from either bow or stern to a cleat on the dock furthest away from the cleat being used on deck to control fore and aft movement of the boat on the dock and this is called a "spring line".











