How to Ride a Wave

Hawaiian tribes have been riding waves for at least 200 years. Riding a wave is simply positioning yourself so that you can swim to the highest part of a wave where it is traveling the fastest. By swimming into the right position, the force of the water inside the wave can push you along.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

1. Get in the water.
2. Warm up by swimming around. Get a feel for the force of the breaking waves.
3. Observe the waves to see where they are breaking. Get behind them by facing the shore.
4. Position yourself so that you can swim at full speed to reach the point where the waves are breaking. You should accelerate quickly to reach a speed where the wave can propel you.
5. Put your hands in front of you, or at your side, and dive into the wave. It will take practice to get the timing correct so that you can ride it effortlessly.
6. Kick in order to stay with the wave and prolong your ride. Another strategy is to bend your legs at the knee. This reduces drag and gets more of your body onto the water moving faster in front of you for a better ride.

Tips & Warnings

• Riding waves is a common pastime for dolphins and porpoises.
• Watch out for the beach. You can scrape your knees and body on the sand. You can also ram your head into the ground if you don't have your hands in front of your head. You may prefer to wear goggles so you can see in the midst of the wave.