-
Step 1
Rent the appropriate-sized shortboard--based on your body type and where you'll be surfing--from a local surf shop. Ask employees to find a good fit and negotiate a rental deal for several days, if possible. The more consecutive days you spend in the water, the more quickly you'll learn.
-
Step 2
Practice paddling around and sitting on the board in calm water before you head out to surf. This assumes that you have beginner surfing experience on a longboard or funboard. Get a feel for switching between lying flat and sitting, and adjust your weight so you can paddle smoothly forward.
-
Step 3
Head out toward the breakers once you've learned to maneuver the shortboard. As you approach a breaking wave, begin to duck dive just before it reaches you: plunge the board's nose down into the water, maintaining your grip on the rails, and push on the board's tail with your foot or knee. With practice this will shoot you under the wave and out the back---have patience!
-
Step 4
Sit on your board once you reach the lineup and scan the horizon for waves. When you see a wave with your name on it, paddle toward where you think the peak of the wave will just be breaking. You need a good push on a shortboard to get going, so you need to be very close to the wave's peak.
-
Step 5
Paddle hard as the wave approaches, glancing over your shoulder to line up into position: just off of the breaking peak. Try to angle slightly away from the peak. As the wave starts to carry you, jump quickly to your feet, and try to head down the line--in the direction the wave is breaking.
-
Step 6
Stay fairly high on the wave, and pump--or swivel--your hips and legs back and forth to maintain and build speed. It's easier said than done. Just keep in mind: you have to keep your speed to stay with the wave; slow or stall, and the wave will overtake you. Work your way up and down the wave face as you move along, trying to stay just in front of the whitewater.
