How to Learn to Surf

Surfing is a great way to enjoy the ocean, sun and waves. It can be frustrating and even dangerous for beginners who try to jump in over their heads. Take the time to learn the sport and then enjoy years of fun in sun.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Surfboard
• Swim suit
• Sun screen
• Leash

1. Start with a used surfboard. Begin with a large board that is easy to manage and has a leash. Leave the narrow boards for the experienced surfers.

2. Find a good spot to learn. Forget about the giant waves that you have seen on television. Start small. It will be easier and safer to learn on smaller waves.

3. Practice on dry land. On the sand learn how to get from a lying down position to your feet. Put your hands flat on the sand, push with your arms, pull your feet up under you and stand up. Once you can do it smoothly you are ready for the water.

4. Paddle out. Paddle in alternating strokes. The best way to make it through waves is to push up on your board. Allow the water to go between your board and chest.

5. Ride a few waves lying on your board. This practice helps you get a feel for the waves so you know when to stand up at the appropriate time.

6. Stand up on the board on a wave. Paddle into a wave until you can feel the wave going faster than you can paddle. Stand up just as you practiced on the beach.

7. Steer to stay with the wave. The angle at which you turn depends upon the size of the wave. The bigger the wave, the more angle you need. Keep your knees bent and your center of gravity low while turning.

Tips & Warnings

• Watch the waves and surfers before you go out.
• Start where it is not too crowded. This helps you avoid cutting in on other surfers.
• You should be a strong swimmer before attempting to surf. Open ocean swimming is good practice.
• Do not paddle into a surfer riding a wave. He has the right of way.
• Do not cut in on and try to ride another surfer's wave. The person closest to the breaking point has the right of way.
• Beware of rip currents. Always swim with a rip current, do not attempt to go directly through it to shore.

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[Wasatch]

on 11/11/2008 Fun article. Thanks

[janejane]

on 7/17/2007 a rip current occurs when tides have built up sand and then when the tides change, the sand breaks away like a v shape. the current then "rushes" sideways and outward. if a swimmer tries to avoid it taking him then he will become tired trying to swim against it and may drownd so the best approach is to swim with it until you are out of the v and the swim to shore.

[bari101]

on 7/13/2007 Beware of rip currents. What is a Rip Current. Been to Hawaii twice. I understand currents, but not sure what the term "rip current" is? I Love the Waves in Hawaii - so much better than Mexico... And cleaner.
But, then again, I'm a Executive Chef.
Chef Bari
http://chefbari.com