How to Install Pergo Flooring

Laminate flooring (Pergo is a brand name) is a good looking floor that resembles hardwood. It is also durable, simple to maintain, relatively easy to install and available at a lower cost than natural hardwoods or even some other brands of laminate flooring. What more could you ask from a floor?

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Laminate flooring
• Underpad
• Eye protection
• Saw (saber saw or jig saw works best)
• Dust mask
• Measuring tape
• Hammer
• Tapping block

Preparation

1. Decide if you want a laminate floor. Evaluate the amount of traffic the area to receive new flooring gets, whether you like flooring that replicates hardwood, and, of course, your budget. Then measure the area where you intend to install the flooring. Also consider the color. Do you prefer a rich oak or a lighter wood, such as a blond maple?

2. Calculate the amount of flooring you need to purchase by multiplying the width of your room by its length, in square feet. That number results in the total square footage of your project. It's also important to purchase between 10-15% more flooring than your mathematical formula calls for to allow for corners or even mistakes.

3. Remove any baseboards, moldings or heat registers as well as any entrance or closet doors. Remember where you temporarily laid down screws and other hardware so when the time comes for you to re-install these items, you'll have everything you need.

4. Prepare the surface for the new flooring. If the room is currently carpeted, remove the carpet, underpad, tackless strips and any tacks in the floor. It is important to nail the existing floorboards into the floor joists so the floor is tight and does not squeak.

5. Bring the boxes of laminate flooring into the room, opening the boxes to allow the Pergo to acclimate in the space for at least 48 hours before you begin installation.
   

Layout and Installation

6. Determine how you want the flooring to run. In long rooms, the flooring normally runs the length of the room. However, in spaces with large windows, you may prefer to have the flooring running parallel to the sunshine. While it's all a matter of preference, be sure you have a plan before you start installing the floor.

7. Using the width of the room, calculate how many full boards will fit into the area and how much space remains that will need to be covered by partial boards. Divide the remaining space by two to calculate the width of the partial boards. Remember: if you need to install partial boards, they should be approximately the same width on each side of the room, rather than just a skinny piece on one side of the room.

8. Install your laminate flooring underlay, laying it out in strips, butting (but not overlapping) one piece against the next. The underlay will help soften the floor and reduce noise.

9. Install the first row: Rip the first row of boards to width by removing the tongue side and laying them near the wall, but not touching it. Lock the boards together on the short side. Use spacers to make sure you leave a gap/space of a quarter inch away from the wall.

10. Install the second row: Cut one third off the length of the first board in the second row and attach it to the first row on the long side. Next, attach a full board to the short side of the cut board, remembering to attach it on the long side to the first row. Repeat this method of attaching boards across the room, first on the short side and then on the long side

11. Install the third row: Cut two thirds off the length of the first board in the third row, while continuing to attach boards across the floor.

12. Begin the fourth row with a full board or, if you prefer, repeat the installation techniques you used in rows one, two and three (full board, one third off, two thirds off) until the entire floor is covered.

13. Measure and cut around any openings in the floor, such as heat registers.

14. Determine the width of the final row of boards by putting a board on top of the second-to-last row, marking the distance to the wall.
    

15. Rip the final row of boards to the marked width on the grooved side and install them.

16. Install floor transitions, reinstall doors, outlets and moldings and you're done!

Tips & Warnings

• It is an excellent idea to have marked off the territory where the heat registers belong before you install the new flooring or you won't have any idea where they belong later.
• You lock the laminate boards together by inserting the tongue into the groove at a high angle. By pushing down, the pieces click/lock into place. Sometimes, they need a little persuading (with a tapping block and hammer) to go into position, but that's normal. It's also a good idea to lay a piece of scrap flooring on the piece you are trying to move into position to protect the edge of the good piece.
• A piece of laminate flooring, stood on its edge, can also act as your spacer. It's nice and long, easy to handle, and provides the proper spacing from the wall. Remember to leave quarter inch spacing from the walls all around the room.
• Laminate flooring is extremely hard and will likely wear out your fine tooth saw blade.
• Cutting laminate flooring produces lots of very fine sawdust, so wear a dust mask to keep it out of your lungs.

[Circey]

on 10/6/2009 Someone told me that there was a special "high traffic" laminate that I had to buy for the stairs that was different than what I was putting in the rest of the room. Is this true?

[heffeweizen]

on 7/22/2009 Can Pergo be installed on stairs?
Thank you

[Andy]

on 2/17/2009 Hi philiped,Have you considered using the spacers while installing the flooring and then laying an extra piece of molding on top of the flooring to cover the gap? Fasten the molding to the baseboard not to the flooring. If I understand your problem correctly I think this will work.Good luck.

[philiped]

on 2/17/2009 Hi,I'm just now planning a laminate floor installation and have a question or a request for comment on a situation I've run into. I have forced hot water heat baseboard on my outside walls. The back portion of the baseboard is nailed to the wall, and it extends to floor level and is flanged slightly toward the living space. This stuff is pretty rigid too. I think I'm going to have to bend the baseboard up out of the way in order to slide the laminate boards under it, and then bend it back after installation of the boards. If you can picture that then you can picture the fact that spacers won't be able to be installed in the areas where the baseboard is located. Some of the baseboard runs the entire length of the wall that I need to start my first row on. Has anyone encountered this problem? How do you maintaim the gap/spacers when the baseboard is in the way. Taking off the baseb

[rolandhollister]

on 1/19/2009 It would be nice . If your planks measured A little longer than 47" Bcause 4' Is standered lenth for small areas . Even with molding ! It is tooo.. SHORT ! , I would not mind to trim to make it look right and get the right spacing. I am leaving the right spacing for expansion. aprox. 1/4 inch per side THANK YOU G.H. GOD PLEASE HELP US ALL.No matter our background. Thank you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!