Things You'll Need:
- Flux
- solder
- torch (propane)
- copper pipes
- safety glasses
- leather gloves
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Step 1
The first step is making sure the pipe(s) to be soldered are clean and dry. Water will cause problems, so make sure the area is dry.
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Step 2
Once the area in clean and dry, apply flux to the pipe end you're starting with. This generally has the consistency of vaseline, and doesn't take much.
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Step 3
After the area has been coated, slide the sleeve (a joining peice) onto the pipe, and hold it in place (Vise grips work well, but they DO conduct heat, so be careful, and don't hold it too tightly)
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Step 4
Heat the pipe with the torch close to the sleeve until your solder melts on contact. This is the part that takes practice. You want it hot enough to melt the solder easily, but not too hot. Once you've done it a few times, you'll get a feeel for how hot that is...
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Step 5
Once the solder is melting on contact, touch the solder to the pipe at the seam where it meets the sleeve. Something called 'capilliary action' will pull the melted solder into the space between the pipes, unless you've got it too hot. This process shouldn't take more than a few seconds.
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Step 6
if you're working on a pipe that has water in it, and you just can't get it all out, this will still work, but be careful for the steam you'll create. It's hot, and will burn you.









Comments
tedh said
on 7/20/2009 TedH say's: When soldering copper tubing (or pipe) apply heat evenly to the fitting and joint. The bigger the fitting the more heat you need to keep both at or near the same temperature. As soon as the solder begins to melt move the heat to the fitting to help the capillary action that will fill the joint with solder. If done properly, the solder will dissappear into the joint (like magic). If the solder is "piled up" on the joint or runs into external drips, you probably have created a "leaker"! Get the heat off immediately. Excessive heat is your worst enemy!
vernk said
on 5/1/2009 when working around the drywall and 2x4's there's a spray that can be had from plumbing supply stores that you spray on the surrounding areas. and it makes it temporarily inflammable. works great i've used it a number of times.
chinikgree said
on 11/10/2006 With practice sweating copper pipes is very easy.....BUT DO NOT ATEMPT IT WITHOUT PRACTICE.....before aplying your flux clean the outside of your copper pipe (the part going into your fitting) with emery cloth and the inside of your fitting when done properly it will be shiney clean and scuffed up...this aids in the penatration of the solder....There is a tool at the home store specifcly for this job located by the copper fittings, flux, etc... It looks like a battery brush.... Wire brush with a 1/2 and 3/4 opening to insert the pipe into and a brush to clean the inside of your fitting......ALSO WATER IS YOUR WORST ENEMY WHEN SOLDERING COPPER......IT WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY WITH EVEN A VERY LITTLE BIT OF WATER IN THE PIPE.....HOWEVER dont be alarmed there is an easy fix for this as done by plumbers......take some bread and shove it in the pipe push it back with a pencil or your finger and solder your joint the bread will absorb the water and break down and flush right out when you turn on the water.....Also if working in tight areas around 2x4's and drywall put some sheet metal behind your work area to prvent burning things up.
scouterclay said
on 10/10/2006 If you have cut the pipe, make sure and remove any burrs before applying the flux.
When heating up the joint, don't try to melt the solder until you see the copper pipe start to change color.