How to Get Started Surfing

So you've seen Blue Crush and Point Break, and are ready to get your surf on! Here's all you need to get started...

Things You'll Need

• Used or rented surfboard (easier to learn on a longer board, 8' or longer)- see related article on how to buy a used surfboard
• Swim wear / wetsuit
• Sunscreen
• Surf wax

Instructions

1. Find a beach where you can surf. Try to find a break with a sandy bottom with gentle waves. Ask a local surf shop or where you bought your surfboard for a good place for a beginner to learn. Most surfers are friendly and like to help new people into the sport.

2. At the beach, avoid the more crowded areas and look for a spot where you can spend some time in the whitewater (the area close to shore where the waves have already crashed)

3. While on the beach, stretch out your neck, shoulders, triceps, legs, back, etc. Apply suncreen to all exposed areas. Apply wax to your board (I like to use circular motions starting from about 1/3 from the nose all the way to the tail).

4. If you haven't already, this is the perfect time to just practice a few basic steps before getting in the water:

   1) Determine if you are regular or "goofy foot". Typically if you are right-handed your left foot is forward (regular stance), and vice versa if you are left-handed. If you have ever ridden a skateboard or snowboard, you should already know. If not, one way to find out is to lay on your board, pretend like you are catching a wave and jump up - which foot is forward? If it is your left foot forward, you are a regular and if your right is forward, you are a goofy footer.

   2) Lay on your board- you should be about 1/3 of the way down on your board, with your feet typically at or near the end of the tail.

   3) To pop up: grip the outside edges of the board with both hands at chest level, and jump up with your front foot about where your chest was and your back foot on the tail. To maintain balance as you are popping up, I have found it helpful to arch your back (almost like stretching your abs) as you push off the board.

   4) Repeat

5. Now it is time to go into the water - once at waters edge, attach your leash to your back foot and wade in. As soon as you get knee/waist deep, jump on your board and begin paddling. You should be positioned on the board so that the nose of the board skims about 1 in above the water.

6. Paddle out with even, alternating strokes into the whitewater zone. There are a number of ways to get through waves, but assuming you have a longboard I have found the following 2 methods work best:

   1) just doing a "pushup" as the whitewater hits you, or

   2) if the whitewater is bigger, flipping over so that you are underwater with the board over you and pulling down the nose of the board with one hand while steadying the rest of the board with the other.

7. Once you get into the zone, turn around by sitting up back on your board and "pivoting" the board around

8. Once the whitewater approaches, paddle hard towards shore and feel the wave push you.

9. As soon as you feel the wave "catch you" (ie the wave is pushing the board forward), stand up as you practices on the beach. Keep your weight on the back foot initially to avoid "pearling" or sinking the nose into the water and face planting into the water.

10. Once you are standing, ride the wave in. You can turn your board by shifting weight rearward to your back foot and pivoting.

11. Paddle out again and keep practicing!

Tips & Warnings

• Buy a used board, if you are starting out you don't to have the newest, fanciest board

• Go with a friend also just starting out

• Be patient, you will get it eventually

• Don't fight the flow of the water - out here, the ocean always wins

• Paddle out in front of or near a lifeguard tower (although somtimes the area right in front will be flagged as swim only)

• Remember to have fun!

• Be wary of rip currents (if you feel find yourself drifting out, paddle PARALLEL/IN A DIAGONAL direction to the shore until you are out of the rip)

• Don't wade out with the board between you and the whitewater - the water can force the board into you and and smack you silly. You want to walk out on the side of the board.

• Try to keep your board under control at all time (ie don't jump off it and launch it towards other people in the water). Grab your board as soon as you jump off it and keep it close.