How to Understand Everest's Mallory Mystery

In June of 1924, 38-year-old Brit George Leigh Mallory and his climbing partner, 22-year-old Andrew "Sandy" Irvine, attempted to summit Mount Everest. They were spotted close to the summit from far below by fellow climber Noel Odell, but soon after vanished. Though Mallory's body was found - only recently - the location of Irvine's still eludes searchers. The mystery remains: Did they, or did they not, reach the summit?

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Computers With Internet Access
• Computers With Internet Access

1. Know that on June 6, 1924, Mallory and Irvine leave the North Col at 23,100 feet and aim to reach the summit in three days. They depart with 30 lbs. of oxygen, using breathing apparatuses that supposedly broke down often.

2. Note that Noel Odell remembers spotting two black dots climbing their way up the 2nd Step on June 8. He loses sight of them as the clouds move in, but comments that they seemed to be making progress.

3. Remember that climbers on Everest report no sign of Mallory and Irvine for two days.

4. Know that Odell finds oxygen parts in their tent at the North Col, and they are presumed dead and buried in a snowstorm.

5. Be aware that in 1933 an ice axe is found and believed to be Irvine's, hinting that he may have lost it or fallen.

6. Learn that a 1960 expedition completes the route up the 2nd Step and concludes that it is too difficult a climb for Mallory and Irvine with their more primitive equipment, suggesting they never made it to the summit.

7. Realize that in 1975 a Chinese climber finds a body 700 feet below where the ice axe was found, but is not able to verify that it is that of Mallory or Irvine. The body was said to be lying facedown, but the climber does not retrieve the body, nor does he comment on finding a camera that could have held photos taken by Irvine of a possible summit.

8. Know that the 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition Team, led by Eric Simonson, climbs to 27,000 feet to investigate the location of the 1975 Chinese camp and fan out along its target search area.

9. Remember that at 1 p.m. on May 1, 1999, search team members Dave Hahn, Tap Richards, Jake Norton, Andy Politz and Conrad Anker report to their advanced base camp that they have found a body. After careful examination, they conclude the body is that of George Leigh Mallory, vanished since June 8, 1924. The body is lying faceup, with death likely resulting from a severe puncture wound to the forehead.

10. Know that a committal ceremony is held in Mallory's honor, followed by a solemn burial.

11. Realize that the search for Irvine continues, his body likely preserved somewhere on that icy Everest slope.

Tips & Warnings

• Though Mallory has been found, the jury is still out on whether or not he and Irvine made it to the summit. While details about their journey continue to surface, speculation runs rampant and the mystery remains.
• Mountaineering is dangerous and can result in injury, illness and even death.

[jedi-master]

on 3/29/2009 Great article. I think one day soon the body of Andrew Irvine will be found and hopefully the mystery will be solved.Mount Everest The British Storywww.everest1953.co.ukwww.everest1953.blogspot.com

[SchoolOfLife]

on 3/11/2009 Interesting article. I enjoyed this- thank you. :)

on 8/6/2006 The camera that his uncle lent him was not with the body - therefore they both got to the top. Mallory gave Irvine the camera, he took the the picture, which when found in the camera on Irvine's body, will prove they got to the top.

on 11/22/2005 Mallory was found face down, and he had several ribs badly broken. His hands and fingers were dug into the shaggy rock face of Everest, which proves Mallory was holding on after a small fall from a high altitude.

My personal thought is that Mallory made the summit with their last bottle of oxygen, while Irvine (never pass the Second Step) made his way down, clearly having extreme summit sickness. Upon his descent, Irvine drops ax, and collapses after trekking back past the first step. Irvine tumbles a very short distance forward and came to a stop on a small ice ledge. Here is where he remains today covered completely in ice and snow. Mallory, on the other hand, searching for his partner on his descent, locates the fallen ax and begins a search of the area for Irvine. During his exhaustive search, Mallory weakened with summit sickness and frustration, decides to descend to the next lower camp. It is then that several rocks from above Mallory shower down upon him, striking him on his forehead and shoulders. The impact forced Mallory off his feet, and into a sliding motion down the north face. Mallory finally stops his body from sliding by reaching out and gripping the rocks steady in his path. The fall and sliding propelled Mallory's body over fairly large rocks and boulders, and badly broke several of his ribs. Mallory, vexed in pain, just faded off and never moved again.