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Step 1
Look for a 38- to 42-inch deck. The deck size refers to the size of the lawnmower blade - the larger the deck, the wider the cutting swath and the quicker the job gets done.
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Step 2
Choose the deck size according to the obstacles you have in your yard. A wider deck is good, but not if you have to go back and get between all of the trees with a regular mower.
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Step 3
Be sure you have enough room to store the mower.
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Step 4
Think about whether you want the engine in the front or the back. Rear engines usually give you better front visibility; front engines typically are found on more powerful mowers.
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Step 5
Ask the sales representative about the different speed controls. You will find a gear lever and clutch-brake combination, foot-pedal controls or a hydrostatic-drive system without a clutch. Expect to add $200 to $500 for the smoother, easier-to-operate hydrostatic drive.
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Step 6
Decide what the majority of your mowing will consist of. Will you be bagging, mulching or tossing the clippings out the side? Check out how complicated it is to switch from one mode to the other and whether you'll need additional accessories to do it.
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Step 7
Get the best warranty possible. Some surveys have found that riding mowers and tractor mowers have the worst reliability records of all major appliances.
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Step 8
Check out how easy the mower is to steer and brake, how wide the turning circle is, the ease of adjusting cutting height, how much legroom it has, where the gas tank is, how comfortable the seat and steering wheel are, how easy the controls are to reach and use, how the bag is removed and how difficult it is to get on and off.
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Step 9
Be prepared to pay between $800 and $3,000 for a tractor or riding mower.









Comments
swampjeff said
on 7/22/2009 A 38-42 inch deck is HUGE-requires 2 blades and may not have enough suction if you like bagging.OK if you have 2 acres. Many 28-33" single blade mowers are MUCH more agile-you can pick up leaves, (sand & pine needles with a Snapper) and throw away your rake (except under bushes) Hydro statics are great-til they break-then you throw away whole mower. Brand names (except Sears-beer can decks-mowers are cheap-they make it back when you need parts-which -in order to get in less than 2 weeks-you BETTER go online-& shipping is expensive) Snapper, Toro, Honda-from a DEALER-not Home Depot-are BY FAR the best-I've been fixing these for 40 yrs. and quality lingers on-long after price is forgotten! A good 10 yr. old or older brand name machine-well maintained-is TWICE the machine as almost ANYTHING you can buy now.
rhanan said
on 4/12/2008 Yankee and Clint have you ever owned one of these robomowers? They really aren't all that great.
rhanan said
on 4/12/2008 Consider that the Robomower I have lasted just past it's 2 year warranty and now doesn't work. I had to send it in yearly for repairs that were covered under warranty. It is a real piece or crap. Don't waste your money just buy a real mower. It will last longer and someone in your area can fix it. I am tired of shipping the robot DHL every summer. I have a real piece of crap that I wish someone wanted because I won't spend 500 a year to keep this running.
yankee said
on 7/26/2007 I have read some good reviews on robotic lawn mowers at http:/www.bamabots.com. My favorite was the Robomower Evolution review. If you can't find it it is here http://www.bamabots.com/robomower-evolution-review.htm
clintd555 said
on 2/26/2007 Consider the overall cost you would pay for a riding mower vs a robotic lawnmower. Even a pushmower isn't a wise choice for some owners: If you cut grass for 2 hours a week for 25 weeks with a 5.5 HP gas powered lawnmower, you're spending $56.00 for gas ($3.00 per gallon), about $70 for yard waste pick up service and $300.00 - $600.00 for a lawnmower (initial cost), that you still have to push! And riding mowers cost even more, making the choice for robotic lawnmower even easier. Info can be found at http://www.lawnbotts.com and a discussion forum at http://forums.robomower.biz
Do your research before you buy.