How to Climb Alaska's Denali

At 20,320 feet, Alaska's Denali, also called Mount McKinley, is North America's highest peak. With a daunting 18,000 feet of vertical rise, it is extremely demanding both physically and mentally. Climbers must train rigorously for this three-week expedition.

Instructions

Difficulty: Challenging

Things You’ll Need:

• Winter Outerwear
• Travel Services
• Camp-stove Fuels
• Camping Stoves
• Climbing Harnesses
• Climbing Ropes
• Winter Backpacking Tents

1. Shell out approximately $4,000 for a guided summer tour.
2. Fly to Anchorage, Alaska, and then on to Talkeetna, where you will unite with your climbing expedition operators, pay National Park Service ranger station fees and register (advance notice of 60 days is required).
3. Hop on a plane with skis and land on the Kahiltma Glacier to set up Base Camp at 7,300 feet.
4. Hike in snowshoes to Camp I at 7,900 feet and do the first of many double carries of gear up and back to each camp.
5. Reach the Kahiltma Pass and Camp II at 10,000 feet, then push up steep terrain to Camp III at 11,500 feet.
6. Rest at Windy Corner's Camp IV and enjoy the 14,200-foot panorama of the Kahiltma Glacier below.
7. Carry loads to Camp V at 16,400 feet - up the head wall and 50-degree slopes - using fixed ropes. You're out of the tundra and among the peaks now.
8. Charge ahead from the crest of the West Buttress to Camp VI at 17,200 feet, along the ridge and at the base of Washburn's Tower.
9. Summit by traversing a steep, snowy face at Denali Pass, where you'll head for a 19,400-foot plateau called the Football Field. Ascend the final 1,000 feet along the crest and battle the winds on the exposed ridge for the last 300 feet.
10. Marvel at the 360-degree panorama with great views of the 8,000-foot South Face, the Cassin Ridge and South Buttress and nearby Mount Huntington, Mount Foraker and Mount Hunter.

Tips & Warnings

• Try the Muldrow Glacier, West Rib or Cassin Ridge routes for a truer wilderness experience, free of the crowds normally found on the West Buttress route.
• Rent a wind tunnel to ready yourself for 100 mph blasts of frozen snow.
• Develop a training regimen and allow yourself plenty of time to get in top shape.