Things You'll Need:
- Muriatic Acid
- Muriatic Acid
- Epoxy Paints
- Paint Roller Pans
- Paint Rollers With Extension Pole
- Paintbrushes
- Pool Supplies
- Paintbrushes
- Rubber Gloves
- Rubber Gloves
- Utility Knives
- Respirator Mask For Painting
- Safety Goggles
- Sandblasters
- Safety Goggles
- Paintbrushes
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Step 1
Determine what kind of paint is currently used in your pool. Most likely, it is either chlorinated rubber paint (which has a life span of two to three years) or epoxy paint (which has a life span of five to seven years). The best way to know for sure is to take a chip of the paint to your dealer and have it tested. It is best to continue covering the pool with the same kind of paint already in use.
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Step 2
Determine how many coats of paint are on your pool walls. (Either peel off and count the layers in an area that is flaking or scratch through with a pocketknife to count the layers.) Painting over a coat or two is fine, but you'll likely encounter problems with adhesion if the old paint is thicker than that.
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Step 3
Look into having the surface sandblasted to bare concrete if you're dealing with multiple layers of old paint. Make sure all paint and sand is removed from the pool before painting.
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Step 4
If you're painting over a layer or two of old paint, first apply trisodium phosphate to clean the walls. Scrub thoroughly.
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Step 5
Rinse and follow with a coat of muriatic acid; allow it to soak according to the manufacturer's direction. (Be absolutely certain to protect your eyes, lungs and skin from this acid solution!)
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Step 6
Rinse with more clean water and use another wash of trisodium phosphate to neutralize any acid still on the surface.
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Step 7
Rinse again with fresh water. Pump out all water (See "How to Empty a Swimming Pool" in the Related eHows) and allow the pool to dry completely.
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Step 8
Repair any cracks before painting. (See "How to Patch a Swimming Pool" in the Related eHows.)
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Step 9
Apply most chlorinated rubber paints directly to the surface; these paints are self-priming. Epoxy paints generally need a coat of primer, especially on bare concrete.
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Step 10
Roll the paint on to cover large open areas evenly and quickly. Use a brush for corners and tight spots around drains and inlet and outlet valves.
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Step 11
Carefully follow all manufacturer's drying and curing directions. Temperature is critical to epoxy paints to ensure proper curing and coating. Low temperatures can cause discoloring and poor adhesion.
Comments
dworkin said
on 6/16/2009 These are all tips I can use. This is my first time undertaking, what I consider to be, a major job on the pool. The pool is drained, and has been brushed and lightly pressure washed. The pool wasn't dirty. We just want a different color. Was pressure washing a smart thing to do?
There are a few bubbles 3-4" in diameter at the bottom and sides of the surface. I was going to sand or whatever to remove the bubbles and resurface those areas.
What would be the best way to remove the bubbles and resurface a small area like these are? How much surface should be removed beyond the bubble's edge, for the best feathering and adhesion? Does anyone have a recommendation on a brand of paint? I will take a paint chip to have it checked out.
I haven't used the trisodium phosphate or muriatic acid wash. Is it absolutely necessary to do this?
The daytime temperature here is averaging 95°-98°. ...
dworkin said
on 6/16/2009 These are all tips I can use. This is my first time undertaking, what I consider to be, a major job on the pool. The pool is drained, and has been brushed and lightly pressure washed. The pool wasn't dirty. We just want a different color. Was pressure washing a smart thing to do?
There are a few bubbles 3-4" in diameter at the bottom and sides of the surface. I was going to sand or whatever to remove the bubbles and resurface those areas.
What would be the best way to remove the bubbles and resurface a small area like these are? How much surface should be removed beyond the bubble's edge, for the best feathering and adhesion? Does anyone have a recommendation on a brand of paint? I will take a paint chip to have it checked out.
I haven't used the trisodium phosphate or muriatic acid wash. Is it absolutely necessary to do this?
The daytime temperature here is averaging 95°-98°. ...
jessesehow said
on 6/15/2008 THE SECRET: Curing/Drying.
Just like what the post before me says, you can do everything right, but if you blow the cure then its all for not. The night after i put my final coat down, the clouds got really low and it misted that early summer night. i woke to white streaks everywhere. i had to repaint it again and it never set well. every time we swam we'd get blue feet. YOU MUST COVER THE POOL AT NIGHT AFTER YOU PAINT!
covshowto said
on 6/8/2007 In France where we now live the paint used is called enduit pour piscine. It costs €105 per container. This is resin which you mix with a cement type powder. Put on with a roller. For our 11 by 5 metre pool we used four containers; this is covering most areas twice some three. Preparation is vital-an angle grinder is essential. Our pool took five days to prepare! It is a big job. You cannot do it in hot sun so we ended up getting up at 6am and working until 10 am.
Then of course it takes five days before it can be filled. Ours takes just over two days to fill. Check ph before adding any other chemicals; correct and then add chlorine or bromine. Good luck.
Anonymous said
on 2/12/2007 Timing is critical. Get the paint on when the sun has dried the pool on a fine day. Try to get as much drying time in before the dew settles to mitigate leach-through or whitening.