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How to Prevent Finger Injuries While Bouldering

Considering how easy it is to prevent them, finger injuries are surprisingly common among boulderers. Here are a few things you can do to avoid hurting your fingers next time you climb.

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    Difficulty:
    Moderate

    Instructions

    Things You'll Need

    • Athletic Tapes
    • Climbing Gear
    • Climbing Harnesses
    • Climbing Helmets
    • Climbing Ropes
    • Climbing Shoes
    • Jump Ropes
    • Tennis Balls
      • 1

        Warm up before you climb. Jog or bike to the bouldering area, jump rope or stretch.

      • 2

        Stretch your fingers and hands. Stretch one hand out in front of you like a traffic cop ordering someone to stop (at a 90-degree angle to your chest and as far in front as you can reach). Use your other hand to gently pull back on the fingers of your outstretched hand. Switch hands and do the stretch again.

      • 3

        Squeeze a tennis ball in each hand for 2 minutes.

      • 4

        Wrap a strip of athletic tape above and below the first knuckle on the middle two fingers of each hand. Tape the fingers tight enough for support but not so tight that you lose circulation or mobility.

      • 5

        Tape other fingers as needed.

      • 6

        Avoid using holds like one-finger pockets and very small crimps unless you're an expert boulderer.

    Tips & Warnings

    • Listen to your body. If your fingers ache, take a break for a few days and let them recover.

    • Bouldering is a physically challenging sport that could result in serious injury. We recommend that you seek the proper equipment and training before undertaking this activity.

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    Comments

    • tjboulder Feb 19, 2008
      i have a question if anyone can answer. i've been bouldering and finally got to a V3 yesterday. i've been bouldering for about three weeks now and i used to climb indoors last fall. i'm wondering how long until the skin on my hands REALLY toughens up so that my grip goes before the skin on my hands.
    • tjboulder Feb 19, 2008
      i have a question if anyone can answer. i've been bouldering and finally got to a V3 yesterday. i've been bouldering for about three weeks now and i used to climb indoors last fall. i'm wondering how long until the skin on my hands REALLY toughens up so that my grip goes before the skin on my hands.

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