How To Do Just About Everything
By eHow Home & Garden Editor
Rate: (46 Ratings)
Easy, all-weather access to your home or service areas is easy to accomplish with nearly maintenance-free concrete walkways. They can also lend to the beauty of your home by framing and putting your home on display as the centerpiece of your yard.
eHow Home & Garden Editor
Comments
marktravellinks said
on 3/4/2008 Try to use certified and licenced concrete contractor with good experience in this field, like www.holessolutions.com and ...
marktravellinks said
on 3/4/2008 Try to use certified concrete related service provide companies like www.holessolutions.com!
Anonymous said
on 9/6/2006 One does not lay concrete, we pour it.
The reason all sod and vegetation has to be removed is because it will rot and cause a gap between the ground and the underneath of the concrete. When it cracks (and it will crack), if the concrete is not reinforced this will cause separation of the concrete and unleveling of sections that may cause pedestrians to trip and fall, thus suing you.
We never use sand or lose gravel as a base because they do not compact well. Best base for concrete is ¾” crushed limestone with screenings. Be sure to compact it well.
One yard of concrete covers an area of 81 square feet at a four-inch depth. When ordering from a ready mix concrete company they will charge a cartage fee for orders under four yards, it is just not profitable to deliver small orders.
One can rent the concrete tools necessary pretty much anywhere. The proper tools are of most importance in producing an excellent finish with concrete, and someone who knows what they are doing with their own tools is even better.
The rule of thumb on pitch (slope) for water runoff (drainage) is one inch for every ten feet.
As for drilling holes into existing flatwork for re-bars I have never drilled eight inches into an existing slab. Four is sufficient. BUT drill down on a slight angle, then after pounding the re-bar in, step down on the exposed section of re-bar until one is sure it is two inches below the top of the concrete grade. I have drilled deeper for industrial and foundation projects for the use of heaver re-bar. I have never coated re-bar with grease and do not understand zig zag’s reason for this… unless he is referring to rusted re-bar.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 In areas that get snow, you may wish to keep the sidewalk an inch or so above the surrounding grade. Snow from surrounding areas will melt during the day, water will flow onto the sidewalk and at night the water will freeze. The sidewalk will be like a skating rink the following morning. Sidewalks should slope away from the house.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 Always, always compact before you pour. If your foundation's not solid, the concrete will break.
If you're pouring concrete up against an existing concrete structure like a driveway and it has to hold a lot of weight or is very large, consider inserting reinforcement rods. To do this, drill a hole (a good 8 inches) with a 3/4 inch bit into the existing concrete. Don't drill too close to the top or bottom of the existing concrete, or else drill with a sharp, narrower bit that will create less vibration. Take your time...Lean into your drill only to the point that it progresses and doesn't bog down and overly vibrate. If you plan on drilling a lot of holes (for example, if you're making your driveway bigger), rent an air compressor and drill.
Drive in reinforcement bars using a sledgehammer. Don't drive them home too much when they start to "ping," especially not in fragile older concrete. Now tap the ends down and coat them with grease. Remember not to cut your break joints with a blade so deep it will cut your bars. The bars are there to keep the newly poured concrete flush with the old structure after it dries.
When you pour concrete, it's easier when you pour it right where you want it and don't have to move it around much. The best way is to have room to move the chute and advance the truck and fill the form from one end to the other. If you haven't done it before, don't be shy to ask the driver what he thinks. The truck's the most important tool on the job and he knows best how to use it.
Other than that, have a good strong rake (or two) and a round shovel with a handle ready. Concrete is very heavy and can break shoddy tools. Use the rake to pull and push the concrete to fill the form. Also use it to tap the concrete down using the flat part of the rake, especially in the corners and along edges. The shovel is to give the rake guy more concrete when he needs it to fill a corner or a low spot. It can also be used to scrape out the chute afterwards. Try and use your tools to push the chute from side to side so you don't have to step in the concrete.
Know how to communicate to your driver, especially if you need him to stay at the wheel to advance the truck while you pour. Make a turning motion with your hand cupped or with one finger when you want him to pour. He'll speed up the rotation of his barrel and concrete will start to pour out. If you want just a little concrete, rub your fingers together. When you can see you're getting too much concrete, make a cut-off gesture like you're cutting your throat. When you want him to advance or back up his truck, slowly wave your forearm at him the way you want him to go. Don't yell at him. He can't hear you with all the noise of the engine and the mixer. Just have him stop the flow and climb up on the side of the truck and explain what you want him to do.
Watch out for the chute...Some trucks have a remote control for the driver to raise and lower the chute. Have him use it for you if you're pouring at different levels like for steps, but DON'T EVER WALK UNDERNEATH the chute. It's a heavy steel chute and full of concrete and can fall on your head and kill you. If you have a hard hat, wear it. If you don't, go buy one for $3 or wear a batting helmet.
When you're done, scrape the last of the concrete out of the chute from top to bottom and hose off your tools. Have enough hose on hand so your driver can rinse out his chute in the street.